|The Dark Side
This is located on the "square block" about halfway up the hill. The block can be seen from the Black Hole directly above a large pine tree on the middle of the hillside. This problem is rad. The crux is the first 8-10 feet. It has really thin laybacks and jams. The upper half of the problem is easier but pretty highball. Unless you regularly onsight .11+ finger cracks, I'd recommend a pad. This is the crack up the center of the northwest face of the square block. There are problems up both aretes on either side of the face. I'm not sure who did the first ascent or if there are any cool historical facts about this one. This is one of my favorite boulder problems. It is worth every star.
Two crashpads and two spotters preferable. The problem is about 19 ft. high with a bad landing
|Comments on Breashear's Crack II
|By Sean Colaroso|
Apr 13, 2002
This was a cool problem the start is hard, but about half way up the holds were [bomber].
|By T.J. Satriano|
Apr 18, 2002
As of about October of last year this problem has been harder. Chris Hanson broke a hold off of the start. It was the little left hand crimp to the left side of the crack, on about the third move I [believe]. It's not too much harder, but people have said it is harder....
|By chris deulen|
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 24, 2006
rating: V3 6A
I'd recommend 3-4 pads with 3 spotters. High ball to the max! It gets easier the higher you go!
|By Jay Samuelson|
From: Denver CO
Jun 22, 2007
rating: V3+ 6A+
Great problem, great crack. Doesn't get much better than this. Last move is a little committing....
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Feb 24, 2008
Tried this for the first time today, last problem of the day so I wasn't full strength, I managed to work the moves till just above the flared off hands/ fingers section, where there is a good ledge 2-3 fingers deep. Right below where the flake section begins. I didn't have enough strength to get through to the next move as the feet really get in obvious and I was basically using my arms mostly.
Oh, I have some bring some freaking tape! I wish I did.
We had 5 pads and 1-3 spotters at a time which helped the mental factor.
Classic for sure, it will be a nice project for me.
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 19, 2008
Now wouldn't the FA be David Breashears?
Aug 8, 2008
This is the most beautiful line I have ever seen, or climbed, literally the world's best V3. It may seem a bit burly until you hunker down on the finger locks and figure out the sequence.
From: Golden, CO
Mar 2, 2009
This might be the hardest V3 I know... great problem, very asthetic.
|By doug rouse|
From: Denver, CO.
Nov 8, 2009
Uh..Yeah...IMHO a sandbag at V3. Would you give this only .11c/d if leading it?
|By Big Ears|
Sep 5, 2011
I would say it's hard for the grade but not necessarily a sandbag. Compare it to the Aid Crack on Cob Rock in Boulder Canyon (.10d), and I would think the rating is accurate. 2-3 letter grades seems about right.
|By Matthew Thaler|
Mar 13, 2012
rating: V3 6A
It's not sandbagged, climbers and grades are getting softer. This is an old school area. Awesome line and climb.
Sep 20, 2013
rating: V3-4 6A+ PG13
I haven't bouldered a whole lot, but this seemed very rough for V3 unless you're an awesome crack climber (which I'm not). If that crux were 40 feet up a climb, I'd expect it go at least 5.12a. Super aesthetic!