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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 892
Submitted By: DennisL on May 20, 2013  with updates from Andy Weinmann

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Climb past two fixed pins and belay from nice stan...


P1: Climb up to the tree then diagonal right to the large corner and a big flake. (keep going right for Broken Neck, 10b). Climb above the flake to a good ledge and belay.
P2: Follow the big corner to its top and belay. If you cut left here to Windy Corner you're on Jankowitz-Kamm (5.5).
P3: Continue to the top of the Cockscomb.


Breakneck starts about in the middle of the face below the Cockscomb below a small tree. The large left-facing corner you will follow should be obvious higher up. The steep face of Broken Neck (aka Breakneck Direct) is the crack system further right.

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By mbarley
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

1st Pitch.
Climb wandering flake system, past a few fixed pins and belay from nice stance just right of Broken Neck. Second pitch pulls and ascends the flake system and then straight up to the top. The second pitch is the best.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I'd put a PG rating for gear on this unless you bring big gear like a #4 and/or #5 cam. Some of the rock seems questionable down low where you'd like to get a placement. Definitely climbing above your gear on this to better placements.

Also, linking P1 and P2 is a good option if you can manage the drag.

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