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Breaking into 5.6 trad in the front range.



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By Wes B.
Jul 6, 2012
Profile Photo

Here are a handful of my favorites . . .
Swanson Arête (eldo)
Schooldaze (11m)
Jaws (11 m)
Guide route (11m)
The Staircase (11 m)
Batman & Robin (lumpy)
White Whale (lumpy)

All amazing! Enjoy.


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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2012
Rewritten

Magical Chrome at Lumpy... First two pitches are 5.6ish, then an easy 5.5 pitch, followed by another 5.6 pitch. The fifth and final pitch has one move on it that is a bit tricky considering the 5.7 rating... but you could always lead the final pitch. It also protects really well...

Oh, and check out Neptune's list... a great list of climbs sorted by difficulty:
www.neptunemountaineering.com/assets/images/100_Favorite_Roc>>>


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Jul 6, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Lumpy!!!
Try Kor Flake 5.7 super fun. One of my first leads. I second Chrome Plated.....

Turkey Perch.!!!
Many easy ones. And she can do some laps on them first to get the feel for them before leading.


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By darin
Jul 6, 2012

Single Pitchers
BoCan, The Dome - East Slab
BoCan, Boulderado - Jam It (bypass to the right), Idle Hands, Ho Hum
N. Table Mtn - Killian's Dead & J.A. Adams Apple, Big Dihedral (a tick harder at 5.8)
Lookout Mtn - 5.6 dihedral and 5.8 hand crack (easier than the rating, and you set a sling from the bolts down to crux 1' from the top)
Vedauwoo - cornelius, bill steal, maiden
Lily Lake - Coloradity


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 6, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

I put the cracks at Elevenmile well below some of the other ones mentioned for quality and ease of leading at that grade. I think the lines in Eldo are far superior as are the cracks of Cobb Rock. Get her a copy of Serious Play and do the routes in that around the Front Range. I found it just fantastic for working the trad grades around here.


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By Dave Swink
From Boulder, Co
Jul 6, 2012

Left Book at Lumpy has lots of great climbs with good pro (mostly):
Dog
Cottontail
White Whale
Manifest Destiny
Zindango


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