Breaking & Entering  5.10a/b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman - OS/GU - Sept 2008 New Route:  Yes Season:  Spring, summer, fall Submitted By:  Adam Winters on Mar 31, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jeremy Freeman cruxing thru the roof

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Description 

A fun route with one tricky roof sequence.

Pitch 1: Climb an easy left-facing obtuse corner to the tricky roof on the right. A finger crack under the roof (crux) leads to a sidepull jug around the lip (watch the rope on the sharp edge of the roof for your follower). Easier ground leads to a nice thin finger crack on the slab. Climb the crack up to the mussy hook anchor. (5.10b)

Pitch 2: Step right under the tree, then head up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam. Follow the crack up, then right to the next crack, and up to the big ledge. Build an anchor. (5.7)

Descent: Scramble up 4th class thru the micro gully, then walk off right, descending either of the two 4th class gullies.

Location 

The obvious corner and roof just left of the only tree at the base of the slab. About 100 feet up and to the right of the very left edge of the slab.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3"

A #.5 Camalot works just after the roof to keep the rope off that edge for the follower (we had a core-shot on the FA when a follower fell under the roof).

Photos of Breaking & Entering Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: 'B&E' topo	Jeremy near the top of pitch 1	Joey following the roof