Breaking & Entering
|1,432 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman - OS/GU - Sept 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, summer, fall|
|Submitted By: ||Adam Winters on Mar 31, 2009|
Jeremy Freeman cruxing thru the roof
A fun route with one tricky roof sequence.
Pitch 1: Climb an easy left-facing obtuse corner to the tricky roof on the right. A finger crack under the roof (crux) leads to a sidepull jug around the lip (watch the rope on the sharp edge of the roof for your follower). Easier ground leads to a nice thin finger crack on the slab. Climb the crack up to the mussy hook anchor. (5.10b)
Pitch 2: Step right under the tree, then head up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam. Follow the crack up, then right to the next crack, and up to the big ledge. Build an anchor. (5.7)
Descent: Scramble up 4th class thru the micro gully, then walk off right, descending either of the two 4th class gullies.
The obvious corner and roof just left of the only tree at the base of the slab. About 100 feet up and to the right of the very left edge of the slab.
Standard rack to 3"
A #.5 Camalot works just after the roof to keep the rope off that edge for the follower (we had a core-shot on the FA when a follower fell under the roof).
BETA PHOTO: 'B&E' topo
Jeremy near the top of pitch 1
Joey following the roof
|Comments on Breaking & Entering
|By Ryan Huetter|
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 23, 2012
There is now a mussy hook station at the end of the first pitch finger crack. A 70m rope just works for top-roping the first pitch. A 60 would probably work if you lowered off to climber's right.
OK route, kind of a 2 move wonder with a fun easy crack finish.
|By Todd Townsend|
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 12, 2013
This is a tricky one to grade. I felt like the crux was harder than any single move on the JMFR, but overall it's much less sustained. Kind of a two-move-wonder, but they're a hard two moves.
A 70m rope gets you to the ground, I don't think a 60m would make it.