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Black and Tan
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Breakin' the Law 

YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Prep: Tim Wagner & Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 3, 2014

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Clipping the fourth bolt between cruxes.

In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

This quintessential Power Endurance line features two back-to-back cruxes low to the ground. The business boils down to crimping through 10-or-so consecutive moves, some of which are quite powerful. The rock is flawless and not as sharp as one might expect. This line was originally conceived and prepped by the visionaries Tim Wagner and Jeff Pedersen. In 2001, the FA was nabbed without regard to Pedersen's redtag.

A few long but easy reaches leads to a traverse under the roof. The first crux is a burly lunge to reach good edges at the lip of the roof. Apparently taller climbers can get a big stem/dropknee here, taking the sting out of the first crux (hence the inevitable internet-hand-wringing over the grade). After a tenuous clip, make a desparate pull onto the headwall utilizing nasty crimps. The headwall is mostly trivial, featuring numerous great rests, and relatively big holds, but there is one dicey slab move that will certainly get your attention.

Location 

On the left end of the upper Black & Tan cave, there is a steep dihedral heading out the roof. Breakin the Law climbes directly to the point where this dihedral meets the lip of the roof. It is also the third bolted line from the left that climbs out the roof of the cave.

Protection 

About 10 bolts to Springer Cold Shuts. Those dynoing to the lip of the roof will probably want a single biner on the fourth bolt to prevent forking the quickdraw.


Photos of Breakin' the Law Slideshow Add Photo
The big-move-if-you're-small to reach the lip of t...
The big-move-if-you're-small to reach the lip of t...
One of several big, fun moves leading to the roof.
One of several big, fun moves leading to the roof.
Contemplating the looming slab crux.
Contemplating the looming slab crux.

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