Breakin and Shakin  5.7 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Al and CJ Simons New Route:  Yes Season:  and dry day Submitted By:  allen simons on Jul 5, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Crux is 20 feet off the deck with a good cam for protection. The name was given because a golf ball size knob broke off and almost caused me to take a 40 footer on marginal gear.

Location 

About .8 miles up the Little Devils Tower trail just before the trail really steepens. On the west side. (43 degrees 50'58.63N by 103 degrees 32'32.72 W) A peak of rock with a gully on both sides. Near verticle, crack at 20 feet, Head of rock 50-55 feet with a step over to a slab to top out near a tree.

Protection 

The initial crack 20 feet up took a couple of cams, 1/2 to 1 inch. Nothing for the next 25 feet. There was a shallow crack/seam that took a # 5 HB(weight bearing only) and a shallow .33 cam. up higher I slung a soft ball sized knob and slung the point with a 6 foot sling. Walk off. No anchors.