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Bill's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agnostic T,TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Cheatah T,TR 
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 
Dark Corner, The T,TR 
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 
Dogleg T,TR 
Escalation T,TR 
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 
Ignominy T,TR 
Lysurgic Ledge T 
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 
Prophet's Honor T,TR 
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 
Talk to the Animals TR 
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 

Breakfast of Champions 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ??
Season: Dry and warm times of year
Page Views: 2,785
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Placing the old school #4 Camalot in the low...

Description 

Crack route around corner to right of Cheetah route. Very nice pure crack route for bottom half. Top half climbs through sustained and steep wall/corner/roof. Crux through wide section and small overhang in middle section.
One can side step the crux of the middle section to the left but the crux section should not be missed.


Location 

Left side of large dark corner chimney that makes up the right side of Bill's Buttress. Around the corner to the right of route "Cheetah".


Protection 

Excellent all sizes and types of gear. Wider cam or hex to protect the brief wide crux section.



Photos of Breakfast of Champions Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan Strong digs deep in the lower handcrack. Summer 2011 <br /> <br />Photo Matt Kuehl
Ryan Strong digs deep in the lower handcrack. Summ...
Andy Hansen moves through the lower handcrack. Summer 2011.  <br /> <br />Photo Matt Kuehl
Andy Hansen moves through the lower handcrack. Sum...
John K. leading Breakfast of Champions Direct <br /> <br />Photo by: Michael Lohre
John K. leading Breakfast of Champions Direct

Pho...
JW leading "Breakfast of Champions" and JJ belays.  Don't look like no grovel fest to me judging by the look on Jerry's face.
JW leading "Breakfast of Champions" and JJ belays....
One last chalkin' before the finish <br /> <br />Photo by: Michael Lohre
One last chalkin' before the finish

Photo by: Mic...
Breakfast of Champions
BETA PHOTO: Breakfast of Champions
Ryan Strong below the roof.  June 2011 <br /> <br />Photo Matt Kuehl
Ryan Strong below the roof. June 2011

Photo Matt...
Comments on Breakfast of Champions Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 29, 2011
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 19, 2007

I think I might like this route a lot more now that it's rated 5.9+. The 5.8 rating always seemed like an insult.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 20, 2007

Yes Jay. I agree. Always have been thinking BOC is another one of those famously under rated routes at DL. And especially if folks stay on route through the wide section and roof it is a tough one for a 5.8. Harder then other 5.8's at the East Bluff?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I would say this route is a 5.10a

4-stars for sure. Great movement. A bit runout after the roof.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a really fun route and a great lead.

By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Loved this route. Great movement. I think the crux is forearm diameter dependent though. I used a very comfortable forearm jam that got me through the crux making if feel like a Lake 5.8

By mandyf
From: grand junction, co
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would say this is a 5.8. It probably feels harder if you aren't comfortable jamming and try to layback though. Very Fun!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I just found out from Rhoads that I did this wrong. I stepped out right after the crack and continued through "no gear" territory until I reached the top of the giant flake. Apparently you are actually supposed to step out left after the crack. That would be the reason for me giving it a 5.10a grade.

So now....

Breakfast of Champions Direct 5.10a - Step out right after the crack, surmount the overhang, continue on slopers and crimps to top of large flake. Finishes from here the same as original route.

By WI RockMonkey in UT
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

If you lead it, watch out for the Ledge about 1/2 way up. Take some small gear with.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

hidden gem

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yeah, literally it's hidden... but it's unfortunate this route doesn't see more action! It's very good and the wide section is pretty entertaining and the upper crux (two variations, one to the left and one to the right directly over the roof) is very exciting. The only fault of this route is the huge platform that breaks up the route and therefore lacks consistency.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

When I led this, I went out right after the crack and was getting super pumped and run out. To me the giant flake ledge in the upper 3rd of the route was a life saver. I reached it and let out a loud "Thank God".