Start in crack, then work up and left to great, thin, crimpy climbing. Crux is clipping second bolt. Continue working up and right past two more bolts.
Route is located on the right edge of the Cereal (Surreal) Buttress, right next to Frosted Flake.
5 bolts, maybe some gear down low in the crack. Anchors at the top
Just after the crux, starting the thin more slabby...
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 28, 2007
Martinis for everyone...
|By Sean Cobourn|
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 10, 2008
Best to use double ropes and use one to get a high piece in Frosted Flake. Otherwise, a fall near the bolt often results in broken ankle.
Nov 23, 2010
Some of the cleanest granite edging in NC. Beautiful.
From: Golden, CO
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Definitely agree about the doubles. I just tied into both ends of my rope then untied from one end at the anchor. Also blowing the upper mantle would not be a good idea. Awesome pitch!
|By Mark Paulson|
Oct 28, 2013
4 bolts, not five. You can place a piece under the roof right in line with the first bolt- there's no need for double ropes, just sling it. The climbing is great, though you may be too gripped on the runouts to enjoy it.
|By Scott Gilliam|
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 28, 2013
Sycamore, you're too strong to understand the need for the double rope technique. It's not to prevent drag. The gear is placed higher than the first bolt and waaaaay out left. It's there to keep you off the slab if you blow it trying to clip the 2nd bolt.