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 ADVANCED
South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines 
Breakfast of Champions 
Crimping Lessons 
Mamunia 
Middle Age Crazy 
Middle Age Crisis 
Middle Age Savage 
My Laundry 
Piggle Pugg 
Shooting Star 
Solid Gold 
Such a Savage 
Such a Waste 
Walking Pneumonia 

Breakfast of Champions 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Ehrenfeld, Eve Uiga and Herb Laeger, December 1977
Page Views: 6,486
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
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Dave finishing first pitch

Description 

This excellent route, one of the few at the Astro Domes that isn't all face climbing, is located on the far right side of the South Astro Dome just right of Such a Savage (5.11a R). Two vastly different and thoroughly enjoyable pitches will get you high above the desert floor, providing far reaching views of the Wonderland Of Rocks and beyond.

P1) Climb a short hand/fist crack to a small ledge and then jam the somewhat awkward hand crack above (5.8) until plentiful face holds appear and lead you up and right along a ramp system to a bolted anchor in a large hueco. P2) Stem your way out of the belay hueco and then continue up and right to the second bolt. Climb out left and up along a faint dike system and then wander up to the last bolt where a quick bit of friction gains the top and a two bolt anchor/rap. Descend the route in two single rope raps with a 60 meter rope.

Originally a single bolt protected the second pitch (the middle one) which made it very runout, but the FA party agreed to allow a few extra bolts to be added to make it enjoyable for all (3 bolts as of Dec. '10).


Protection 

Pro to 3" for the first pitch and 3 bolts for the second pitch. The belays are bolted and all bolts are 3/8".



Photos of Breakfast of Champions Slideshow Add Photo
B of C
B of C
Albert Ramirez
Albert Ramirez
Climbers on the 1st pitch of Breakfast of Champions (5.8+), JTNP.
Climbers on the 1st pitch of Breakfast of Champion...
Following first pitch.
Following first pitch.
Albert Ramirez
Albert Ramirez
Agina Sedler-Rupert belayed by Albert Ramirez.
Agina Sedler-Rupert belayed by Albert Ramirez.
Comments on Breakfast of Champions Add Comment
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By RTM
Feb 27, 2003

The second pitch of this climb is a hella good time.

By Joseph Lee
Oct 10, 2004

This is a great climb. Two completely different pitches that serve up JTree climbing at it's best. Starts with a sweet hand crack to face climbing with nice incuts. The upper pitch involves textbook runout slab climbing. And then enjoy panoramic views from the top of the south Astrodome.

By tony grice
Mar 1, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Super route, great fun in shade most of the day.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 8, 2006

After just finishing Figures On A Landscape, this was a relief and so much fun. The second pitch is quite run out and exciting!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 30, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Now that an extra bolt has been added I might go back and repeat this one!

By aliebling
Apr 16, 2011

As a shorter (and relatively new) leader with smaller hands, I found the fist section just off the ground very challenging. Both the jams and the feet were extremely awkward leaving it difficult for me to get protection in. I ended up falling to the ground (happily "only" 6 feet or so) trying to get pro in to it. If I was a more confident leader or this section was further off the ground, I would have just climbed through it and placed gear in the easy hand crack above. If my hands were a bit larger, this probably wouldn't have been an issue, either.

Rest of the route was great fun. Loved the second pitch!

P.S. Definitely can be a bit cold on a windy day

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 19, 2011

very nice climb that gets u nice and high. Best best be solid at leading 5.9 or so for this one as some sections are a bit stout and the second pitch is a bit scary and quite run out. (can hardly imagine it when it only had one bolt)! i would vote for at for 5.8+ for first pitch, 5.9R for second pitch (which even though bolted the bolts are a bit hard to spot and involve some weaving around)/

By Tradoholic
Jan 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Nice varied climbing with hand and finger crack to "improbable" slab climbing on the 2nd pitch.

Not really "R" on the second pitch as the moves are pretty solid with bolt at your waist during the crux (2nd bolt I think).

By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Feb 21, 2012

A must in J Tree for the grade. Jammin' crack, runout slab, great view, adventurous descent (Through the gully between the north and south domes)... everything you could ever want.

By Canon
Feb 29, 2012

Very good climb. Hardest moves were getting off the deck and placing gear to protect it. It is a little awkward. P2 is almost run-out, but not quite. The most dangerous part of this climb is between the P1 belay anchors and the first bolt on P2. If you peel, you're probably going to hit your belayer.