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Breakfast for Dinner
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 17
votes
Routes in The Wall aka Breakfast Nook
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Bakin' and Eggs S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blocky TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breakfast for Dinner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chimney TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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French Toast S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roof 2 TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Short Stack S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunny Side Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wake Up With a Heart On S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,207 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Michael R on Oct 17, 2016 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Nearby perigrine falcon nesting - anticipated closure
Details
From Phillip Nyland, NFS, In the past I have reached out to many of you in regards to a peregrine falcon nest site at Lime Canyon (Eagle County, Colorado) on Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, White River NF.
It looks like there is another pair nesting at a different location where people like to climb; Coal Creek near Redstone, Pitkin County, Colorado located about a mile east of the Coal Creek Boulders area. Through monitoring, we have enough information to believe the site is being used for nesting. Because of this, we anticipate initiating a temporary closure of the immediate cliffs and steep terrain surrounding the nest site, which would run until August 1 or earlier if nesting ends earlier. The vicinity and forthcoming restricted area are on attached maps.
Some information that might be helpful to climbers: we are asking folks to avoid the cliffs and steep terrain at this time, in advance of a temporary area closure forthcoming in the immediate future. The area temporarily restricted is about one mile east of the climbing routes known as Coal Creek Boulders, and does not include Coal Creek Boulders. The area is approximately 2,000 feet of cliffs and steep rocky terrain north of Coal Basin Road (FSR 307) at and beyond the winter road closure gate, ending at the unnamed tributary west of the gate approximately 1.3 to 1.6 miles from CO Highway 133. Please avoid being on the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, and access routes in the indicated area. The top of the cliffs are included because we have seen peregrines perching on these. Closure information should be posted by the weekend on the road at the boundary of the restricted area. The closure will end when rescinded or August 1, whichever is earlier.
On the same token, we will be monitoring Lime Canyon for nesting peregrine falcons in the near future and I will reach out with a 2023 status.
It looks like there is another pair nesting at a different location where people like to climb; Coal Creek near Redstone, Pitkin County, Colorado located about a mile east of the Coal Creek Boulders area. Through monitoring, we have enough information to believe the site is being used for nesting. Because of this, we anticipate initiating a temporary closure of the immediate cliffs and steep terrain surrounding the nest site, which would run until August 1 or earlier if nesting ends earlier. The vicinity and forthcoming restricted area are on attached maps.
Some information that might be helpful to climbers: we are asking folks to avoid the cliffs and steep terrain at this time, in advance of a temporary area closure forthcoming in the immediate future. The area temporarily restricted is about one mile east of the climbing routes known as Coal Creek Boulders, and does not include Coal Creek Boulders. The area is approximately 2,000 feet of cliffs and steep rocky terrain north of Coal Basin Road (FSR 307) at and beyond the winter road closure gate, ending at the unnamed tributary west of the gate approximately 1.3 to 1.6 miles from CO Highway 133. Please avoid being on the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, and access routes in the indicated area. The top of the cliffs are included because we have seen peregrines perching on these. Closure information should be posted by the weekend on the road at the boundary of the restricted area. The closure will end when rescinded or August 1, whichever is earlier.
On the same token, we will be monitoring Lime Canyon for nesting peregrine falcons in the near future and I will reach out with a 2023 status.
Description
Scramble up to a high first bolt (4th class). 5.5 climbing leads to a light colored flake on the edge of an arete. This is the route's crux (.10a). Work up the arete and flake with thin feet to a juggy roof that is easier than it looks from the ground. Angle left above the roof to the anchors.
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