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Breakdown in Paradise 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 628
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 3, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

An unusual route that starts with easier moves on an aesthetic, highly pocketed wall before hitting a crux sequence about 3/4s up on edges. The crux feels a bit contrived because the bolting tries to force you into harder terrain when an easier sequence is a bit off to the side but has a pendulum fall risk as a deterrent.


Location 

Just right of the start of Moscow.


Protection 

Bolts. Rap Anchors.



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By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 26, 2010

New guide book says this routinely spits off people expecting a cruise. I went slightly right of the bolt line following some chalked crimps and polished tiny feet. Felt full-on 5.11.

By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Agree with Ybarra, and I'm probably one of those 'routinely spit off' (hey, I made the new guidebook!). The rating on this route changes quite a bit depending on how you attack it, but journeying back to the bolts keeps it mid-10.

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

From what I've gathered, the bolt that forces you into the harder terrain is a recent addition of the past few years. The 10b grade is for climbing to the left of the bolt line up high, despite the pendulum risk. Definitely considerably harder (5.11 most likely) if you go straight up.

What a crappy route.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 25, 2013

This route shouldn't be underestimated. It feels like 5.11 if you follow the bolts. If you go out left you are looking at a real pendulum and I've seen people hurt from taking that fall. NOT for the shaky 5.10 leader.