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Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.) 
Broken Dreams 
Project ( We call it titty twister) 


Hueco: V5- Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: Remo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Sep 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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As seen from the right.


Starts seated on the right arete. While staying on the main face, pull up and left to a fossilized prune knob, followed by a small sidepull just next to the arete, then direct to the top using a left pinch and foot work. A slightly easier variation uses the right arete and round the corner holds at V2-3.


Hike to the top of the ridge 50ft past Hang loose. You should be standing at the end of a small clearing. With your back to the road and in line with the barrel ridge area turn 90 degrees to the left (East). Staying below the faint ridge on the right walk approx. 100ft into the woods, cross a rocky drainage ditch, and the boulder should be right in front of you. Its about a 5min walk if you know where your going. Right side of the Vadge Boulder.



Photos of Breakaway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of the face.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the face.

Comments on Breakaway Add Comment
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By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 13, 2008
rating: V3-4 6A+

Hey Trav, yeah I did this and called it Breakaway, V3-4ish. Using the corner was a tad easier, maybe V2-3, but just a variation. Good work on the post and all the new lines.
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Sep 13, 2008

Awesome job! Were you guys here on the bash weekend?
By Dommer
Apr 30, 2012
rating: V5 6C

The bomber sidepull for your right hand high up and just in from the arete is no longer there. I was able to bump off the remains to even higher up on the arete and still hit the pinch with my left hand. Still a really good problem. I'd peg it at solid V5 now.
By Dobbe
Apr 30, 2012

Not sure when this happened and not directed at one person. Just a heads up that people should not climb at the Dodge a day after a good rain. This problem was always soft and is going to break anyway but we would hate to break holds on classic problems. Thanks

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