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Circus Wall
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Air Show T 
Bimbo's Bulge T 
Break On Through T 
Zoo View T 

Break On Through 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Tom McMillan, 1978
Page Views: 2,611
Submitted By: Alexander Blum on Jul 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Leader on the Start of Break On Through

Description 

P1: Climb sentinel chimney to a big ledge. The kind of wide crack right in front of your face is Air Show. It is easy to build a belay here with big nuts/tricams.

P2: From the belay climb right on horizontals until you hit a weird, quartzy crack/corner feature. Blast up this . . . . it stays steep for quite a while. When the angle eases, aim up and a little left towards a crack in the big roof. Cutting feet when you stick the jug earns extra style points. Continue up on easier ground but with a few more steep spots.


Location 

Circus Wall


Protection 

Standard Moore's dealio



Photos of Break On Through Slideshow Add Photo
Skinny sends!
Skinny sends!
Feeling out the start of the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Feeling out the start of the crux.
...onto the jug and cutting feet loose! (no fall)
...onto the jug and cutting feet loose! (no fall)
Starting to pull the roof...
Starting to pull the roof...
Comments on Break On Through Add Comment
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route to "Break on Through" into the 10's. It's an easy one move crux with good protection. You can belay off of the tree below Airshow.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Would probably rate this higher if it was more sustained at the grade, and if the climbing quality after the roof was better. Agree with Ryan that this is a good route to break into 10- as the opening 5.8 climbing, though having no difficult individual moves, tests the fitness and skills needed to protect 10- climbing. This route isn't just a boulder move.