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> Mother Carey's Kitchen
Brazen Buttress
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Brazen Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cracks, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Herod T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Joyous Gard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Meridian T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rock Idol T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunsmoke T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Threadneedle Street T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Zeppelin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | P Littlejohn |
| Page Views: | 622 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Russell on Apr 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
A classic, sustained route following a slightly wandering but perfectly logical line up the centre of the buttress. The route is just on the friendly side of vertical, but past the belay ledge there is no real respite so move quickly or be prepared for a good pump!
Start beneath a small projecting pedestal at about 12m. Climb up to the left-facing corner bounding the left-hand side of the pedestal and make a few stiff pulls to gain the superbly-positioned belay on top. It is common to run the pitches together, and rope drag won't be an issue but a belay here is particularly advisable if the tide threatens!
From the left edge of the pedestal, move up and left to a rightwards-trending crack system. Follow the crack to it's end, never desperate but very sustained, then climb more directly to the top.
Start beneath a small projecting pedestal at about 12m. Climb up to the left-facing corner bounding the left-hand side of the pedestal and make a few stiff pulls to gain the superbly-positioned belay on top. It is common to run the pitches together, and rope drag won't be an issue but a belay here is particularly advisable if the tide threatens!
From the left edge of the pedestal, move up and left to a rightwards-trending crack system. Follow the crack to it's end, never desperate but very sustained, then climb more directly to the top.
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