Start on junky and sharp rock and climb up a slight overhang to a small lip. Pull the lip (first crux), clip the third bolt, and catch a decent rest. Crank through some thin balancy moves off of slopers and crimps between bolts four and six (second crux). Easier but still interesting climbing guards the anchors.
The rock on this one is questionable, but will probably improve with traffic.
Second route from the far left of the main wall. In between Phrenology and Meltdown, the other two routes left of a huge crack.
9 bolts to chains
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This route is challenging and out of character for The Dungeon. Don't do it if you do not like "no holds", and balance climbing. It is worth doing once but is not that much fun. I also broke off some rock. It might be better after it cleans up a bit.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 28, 2009
Hey now, I thought the route was quite fun. Yes, you rarely get any holds that are positive - pretty much everything is a flat sloper, sorta like shingles on a roof, but if you keep you feet, it's some good, technical climbing. Generously bolted too (thanks Josh), so you never feel like you're going to take a big whip. I agree that it needs more cleaning though. I managed to get up it without breaking any rock off, but there was plenty of lichen to keep me company.