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Willow River State Park
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Brass Monkey 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,024
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on May 7, 2008

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Brandon grabbing the lip at the crux roof on Brass...

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Description 

This new route is an extension to the already est. route 'Water Music'. Previously an aid line done by Mike Dahlberg, has now been bolted and freed. Crux is for sure the huge roof pull, with one enormous reach, a toss to the lip, and then some technique to finish the roof pull. The start has some rad moves as well but the rock below the first roof is not the best. Some clips are hard to make. Anchors are right above the monkey face, below a small roof. This is the first route that I have bolted (with the help of Jeff Engel and Mike Dahlberg's aid bolts). Enjoy!

Location 

Begins on the far right side of the amplitheater next to the forever seeping rock.

Protection 

Bolts. Use lots of very long draws. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.


Photos of Brass Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
pulling through the roof.
pulling through the roof.
past the crux. two bolts to the anchors.
past the crux. two bolts to the anchors.
Brandon nearing the chains on Water Music before heading into the Brass Monkey extension.
Brandon nearing the chains on Water Music before h...
last move before the alcove/hole/huge hueco.
last move before the alcove/hole/huge hueco.
Ryan about the stick the crux of Brass Monkey
Ryan about the stick the crux of Brass Monkey

Comments on Brass Monkey Add Comment
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By AntVicino
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is a really undervalued route. Has some of the coolest moves around, though. Pulling that second roof can be difficult in direct proportion to your height. For me the moves the span move in the roof was very difficult. The route breaks down into a 12a, into a good rest, into a V6/7 boulder problem depending on your length. Get on this route and try it, it is well worth it!
By Tyler
Jun 27, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Strangely enough, I echo Ant's comments exactly.
Well said.
By ferrells
Aug 23, 2013

This route has suffered quite a bit of breakage in the last year. I've gotten on it for goes three times in the past year (summer 2012, late fall 2012, and summer this year), but never really gave it consecutive attempts. When I first got on it, I was told that there was significant breakage since the FA, and in the last two times I've gotten on it, it has been harder than the time before. It used to be this nice little techy roof with good holds, a big swing over, and a bomber toe hook, hand match. Now, the holds are bad enough (particularly the holds that you move off of to get to the pocket on the roof, and the left hand that matches into the big pocket in the roof) that it's actually easier to just dyno through the moves from that hold to the lip. I don't know if this is good or bad, but I think it's helpful to know.