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Upper Great Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Few Moments of Pleasure T 
Big Steep, The T 
Brass Junkie T,S 
Golden Monkey, The T,S 
Hotness, The S 
Paul's Boutique T,S 
Wiffle Ball Bat S 
Unsorted Routes:

Brass Junkie 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Pomeroy & Chris Taylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: Chris. T. on Aug 28, 2011

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Pitch 3 of 'Brass Junkie'. Paul lowering back to t...


This route starts from the top of Pitch 1 of 'Paul's Boutique

Pitch 1: Climb up and RIGHT from the anchor on easy rock to gain the first bolt. Continue past one more bolt, then fire up the thin crack/seam (crux) placing gear when available to gain the large comfortable belay ledge(the '5.10 ledge'). 90 feet, 5.10+.

(This pitch can also be started from the bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep', by climbing left to gain the first bolt)

Pitch 2: Locate a crack in the green/black stripe of lichen that shoots up the left side of the headwall (just left of 'The Hotness'), and follow it for 60 feet. Another 40 feet of easy climbing leads up to a bolted ring anchor near the top of the wall(same anchor as for 'The Hotness'). 100 feet, 5.9+.

Descent: From the top of pitch 3, lower or rappel with a 60 meter rope back to the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'). Then rappel down to the base using the bolted chain anchors for 'The Big Steep'.


'Brass Junkie' starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Paul's Boutique' and climbs up and RIGHT from the belay to reach the first bolt.


Pitch 1: 'Paul's Boutique' start-Twelve bolts(long runners useful), bolted anchor; or 'The Big Steep' start-Eleven bolts, bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: Two bolts, Standard rack, including small wires. Gear anchor.

Pitch 3: Standard rack, including small wires,(one 4" to 4.5" inch cam is very useful). Bolted anchor.

Don't forget the brass.

60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!

Photos of Brass Junkie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sara climbing past the last bolt on Pitch 1 of 'Pa...
Sara climbing past the last bolt on Pitch 1 of 'Pa...

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