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 ADVANCED
Tower One
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armed and Hammered S 
Bollocks S 
Brainless Conformants S 
Cause for Alarm S 
Cheap Thrills T 
Hell is for Children S 
Little Hellion S 
Medussa S 
Pandora S 
Rezin Scraper S 
Shelter from the Storm S 
What the Hell T 

Brainless Conformants 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 9 26 04
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 652
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description (2 cruxes, go up stuff, pull on things) 

    Brainless Conformants is the 2nd pitch of Cause for Alarm, a sweet 10c that tackles a striking dihedral feature on the vertical S face of Tower 1. Be warned though, the second pitch is quite different in nature and might scare your pants off.

    Begin (obviously) at the 3 bolt anchor at the top of CFA. A 4th bolt a foot up and right from the belay station will save you from a factor-2 fall on the anchor while you extricate yourself from the ledge, the bulge in your face pushing you back and the holds mysteriously refusing to appear where you want them. A few insecure big moves deposit you above the anchor on brittle rock. Tackle a strange technical crux to get into a lieback/undercling feature, pull above it and gingerly pick your way up the slab on fragile looking holds and the occasional questionable intrusion of black rock.
    Even though the climbing is moderate, the exposure and rock quality make for a great tip-toeing experience (and we didn't break anything). Bolts everywhere save the day.

    Lower off to the CFA anchors, manage your rope clusterfuck (multipitch spurt climbing what?), rap to the ground.

    Location 

    Approach Brainless Conformant by climbing Cause for Alarm. Tackling the whole thing in one long pitch seems feasible considering the amount of back cleaning you can do on P1 (hint: keep every 3rd draw). Expect rope drag and fear if you do it that way though.

    Protection 

    9 bolts to a 2 bolts chain anchor + whatever you need for P1 (12 draws, although 9 is fine too).


    Comments on Brainless Conformants Add Comment
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    By Tim Wolfe
    Administrator
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Apr 23, 2012
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    A very nice second pitch to the route that should be done since it is one of the better pitches on the wall. A rare hard move that tops out in the 5.10 range, lots of rests, plenty of bolts - just fun climbing.
    By BobGray
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jul 9, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Much harder than 10b.......maybe it has cleaned up a bit since I got first ascent. A much stiffer second pitch to cause for alarm.
    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 23, 2013

    I'm not sure why this pitch would scare you're pants off. It's very tightly bolted, and there is only one move, right off the belay, that approaches the grade given. But the exposure is fantastic, and the dramatic change in the rock mid-pitch is interesting to experience.