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 ADVANCED
The Brain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Storm T 
Brain Teasers T 
Brain Tweezers S 
Brain Wave T 
Butta S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 
M.E.N.S.A. S 
Mulatto Serpent S 
Out of Mind T 
Travisty, The S 
Whiny Bugs S 
You Want It, You Got It S 

Brain Wave 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Sep 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Start at the shared start with You Want It, You Got It which is some jugs on the left face of the Brain. Climb up and right to the arete and continue up the left side of the arete until you need to traverse over to the right side to finish up on the Out of Mind anchors.

Location 

If this isn't the first climb you see, when you walk up the trail, then it's probably the second. The trail leads straight up to it, just look left. If you see bolts, that's where this starts. Go to the right of the bolts.

Protection 

Trad gear. There are some funky placements in this bulbous, brain-like formation. Bring some small tri-cams and nuts. You may be able to find a cam placement, but the rock is so wavy that constrictions are more easily found than straight-sided cracks.


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By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
Aug 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sling the jug ten feet up from the start for great natural pro. It comes supplied with a friendly little numb on the left side that keeps your slings in place.