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Bad Bananas
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Brain Full of Spiders 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard, John Ross, 01 Nov 08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,422
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 14, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Moderate routes to the top on Bad Bananas...

Description 

A moderate jaunt from the base to the top of the dramatic buttress at the mouth of Rock Canyon. The character of the route changes drastically from the first pitch to the subsequent pitches as the rock becomes significantly more solid.

The first pitch starts on steep, gritty, rounded quartzite of the same texture as that found nearby at Super Bowl and the Bad Bananas "cave". This changes midway to a section of hard, shattered, glass-like shards (which actually make tinkling sounds like glass shards do), finally giving way to broken, hollow, rounded rock at the top of the first pitch.

The subsequent pitches consist of solid, sometimes rough, mostly smooth rock with a multitude of positive edges for both hands and feet.

If care is taken to manage rope drag, pitches 2 and 3 can be linked, as can pitches 3 and 4.

P1 (5.9, 110') From the top of the approach ramp, step up and out onto a small ledge. The first bolt isn’t visible from the ramp, but is apparent from the ledge. Follow the bolts through a slightly overhanging bulge and then over a small, rounded roof. The hardest move on the route is getting over the first bulge.

After surmounting the small roof and climbing through two more bolts, trend right, climbing to a sloping ledge, using good edges over some glass-like quartzite that forms sharp-edged vertical shards. Clip the bolt above the ledge with a double-length sling, then make an airy step to the left over a small roof onto some rather dubious-looking footholds. Continue up, clipping two more bolts, and then, because of hollow, loose rock ahead, step left onto a ledge rather than continuing straight up.

Clip the penultimate bolt with a double-length sling, climb up a bit on easy ground, clip the last bolt, and then head for the belay on top of the pedestal.

P2 (5.6, 60') From the belay, step right and up from the pedestal into a steep gully with two bolts. Sling these two bolts long and climb up onto the platform at the top left of the gully (to the right of the bush). Clip the next bolt, and then follow five more fairly closely-spaced bolts through a series of short, near-vertical to slightly-overhanging faces between narrow ledges (the fourth bolt from the bush is a bit hard to find since it lies around a right edge from the face). Arrive at the belay on a wide ledge with a low, pronounced overhang.

P3 (5.6, 50') From the “Crowbar Ledge” make a fun, easy move above the overhang and clip the first bolt. Continue up past three more bolts to a ledge with several large, detached rocks. Continue up the face above the ledge past two more bolts to the belay on a narrow ledge.

P4 (5.easy, 50') From the belay walk carefully left on the narrow ledge to the rock face, clip the first bolt with a sling and head up the easy terrain past three more bolts to the belay on the wide ledge just below the top.


Descent 

From the final belay position follow the ledge south and then east and arrive at the top of the buttress. Walk down a trail northeast until the gully, and then talus-surf to the canyon floor.


Location 

Approach as for the Bad Bananas "cave". Walk up the sloping ramp to the left of the cave. Belay at the top of the ramp (two bolts for the belayer).


Protection 

Bring enough draws and slings for fourteen bolts (fifteen if linking pitches 2 and 3). At least two double-length slings and at least two single-length slings are needed for managing rope drag on the first pitch.

P1 14 bolts, double-ring anchors. As well as draws, bring the aforementioned slings to help manage rope drag because the pitch zigzags a bit.

P2 8 bolts, double-ring anchors. Slinging the first two bolts long will help with rope drag; if linking pitches 2 and 3 some additional slings will help.

P3 6 bolts, double-ring anchors.

P4 4 bolts, double-ring anchors.



Photos of Brain Full of Spiders Slideshow Add Photo
Christian on top of the third (second if combining 2 and 3) pitch of Brain Full of Spiders.
Christian on top of the third (second if combining...
Where's Waldo? (Perin) Cleaning and bolting <a href='/v/brain-full-of-spiders/106302604'>Brain Full of Spiders</a>.
Where's Waldo? (Perin) Cleaning and bolting [[1063...
Three climbers (I'm guessing Kip, his son, and Perin?) on Brain Full of Spiders on Saturday, 11/15/08. They're visible in the full size version.
Three climbers (I'm guessing Kip, his son, and Per...
Nearing the top of P3. Such cool rock with lots of positive edges.
Nearing the top of P3. Such cool rock with lots of...
Starting up the final (easy) pitch.
Starting up the final (easy) pitch.
Me on the first pitch of Brain Full of Spiders.
Me on the first pitch of Brain Full of Spiders.
Standing at the top after the FA.
Standing at the top after the FA.
Unknown climbers starting up <em>Brain Full of Spiders</em> on 26 Aug 2009.
Unknown climbers starting up Brain Full of Spi...
Comments on Brain Full of Spiders Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 2, 2014
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 14, 2008

If you want to make a half-day of it, continue from the top of Brain Full of Spiders to Trilogy Buttress. The top of Bad Bananas is at roughly the same level as the start of the Trilogy routes.

By Lee Jensen
Nov 15, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route makes a great addition to Rock Canyon since there are few long multipitch climbs. Additionally, the top out onto the summit of the buttress makes for a great end. Enjoy the views as you climb and spread out on the spacious belay ledges.

Even though the exposure is intimidating on the first pitch the bolts are well placed for all the crux moves.

By Darren Knezek
Nov 16, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

What a cool line to do! What a lot of work to equip! The long belay on Allegro Energico must have planted the seed for this climb.

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 17, 2008

We just did this with my 14 year old budding climber son in a 3 man assault. The first pitch still needs some cleaning up as i took a fall taking off a nice sized hold. The first pitch has a balancy bulge to circumnavigate. The 2nd and 3rd pitch is pure joy - great rock and huge holds make for exposed well protected climbing. If you link these 2 routes you'll have more rope drag. If you have the time i'd not link them. When you summit you really have a sense of accomplishment. My son loved it and it was his first real multipitch. Thanks for all your work on this Perin!

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 17, 2008

Kip, if they come off, they're not holds...they're scenery.

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Nov 20, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I have to say how impressed I am with Perin's routes in RC and the hardware he's using. He would never toot his own horn, but powder coated anchors, hangers, and stainless steel Powers bolts are just so cool (and so expensive). They'll last almost forever, but still replaceable if ever needed. Perin put an amazing amount of effort into trying to make this into a good moderate multi-pitch route which it has turned out to be. I was glad to help out with this route a little bit and see it develop. Once again it makes me realize the many climbs out there put up thanklessly for all to enjoy. Whether clipping a cool line, or putting gear in a clean crack, someone first had to do a bunch of route finding, hauling, cleaning, and sometimes bolting. I can't wait to climb your next route Perin! (okay, maybe I already have...stay tuned)

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 24, 2008

It should be possible to rap it all the way down, but I've not done it yet while pulling the rope. When cleaning and equipping it I always used a single strand from the top all the way down (using two ropes), and either jugged back up or climbed it on solo toprope - I did this because I'm not sure my 200' static is quite long enough for a doubled-rope rap off the first pitch - and I always forgot to check.

For rapping the first pitch, I'd recommend a 70m rope, and rather than following the route down to the left of the belay pedestal, go straight out over the overhang (should be a free-hanging rap down to the approach ramp).

However, I'm not sure why you'd want to rap it. From the top it takes literally 5 minutes to bomb down the gully to the level at which you cut west back to the base of Bad Bananas, and 5 more minutes from there. Even if you leave stuff at the base it'd be faster to go down the gully and back to the base than it would be to do 4 raps.

By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Nov 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Congrats Perin! I echo John's comments about the thankless efforts of all those who put these great routes up. Although I skeptical about every hand and foothold, I enjoyed the first 2 pitches before we moved over to Deputantes. I got shut down going for the 6th bolt (I think) pulling over the double bulge. Once I figured it out, I felt a little silly. I still think it is a .10a move (very balancy). Then I did not know where the chains to the first pitch were until I heard a voice...Perin yelling "Go up and right". Thanks again Perin. I was getting nervous that I missed the chains or there was more climbing to do that required my 2 remaining draws. As more people become aware of this route and climb it, then I think it should clean up. Where a helmet as a belayer/follower just to be safe though.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Jan 17, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree that with a better first pitch it would be three stars. The first pitch was nasty but hey it's worth it for the upper pitches. And I actually thought it was 5.10a. Definitely thought-provoking climbing. But we saw Perin and John later in the day and John said he thought the first pitch was 5.8! Maybe if you know where the holds are? I dunno. Pretty freakin stout for 5.8, IMO.

We linked pitches two and three and that worked pretty well. It's amazing how fast the rock turns from garbage to great! The upper pitches are fun, easy climbing. Overall, this is a solid, fun route. Thanks for bolting and cleaning it guys! Can't wait to get on Dancing With Feral Debutantes. That upper wall looks awesome!

(As far as conditions go, it was pretty warm in the sun and the descent was mostly snow-free. Get on it!)

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 17, 2009

The number of multi-pitch continues to climb. We have lost that complaint in this canyon:

I was searching around my local small town library when I found a tiny weathered manuscript. This caught my attention when I noticed the title: "The true story of Bad Bananas."

The story begins with some old timers (all of whom were rumored to have the last name of Knight) needing something epic to do after helping to subdue the south in the Civil War. Enlisting the help of thousands of immigrant Chinese and Irish (who had recently finished work on the Transcontinental Railroad) they first dug an enormous pit (now filled with water and called Utah Lake). The sand pile that resulted was of truly Goliath proportions.

This pile was located in a nearby canyon (that was named "Rock" by the Irish after the most obvious feature as all the other canyons actually had trees).

Now that they had finished their huge pit of wonders. They sat around and waited for the tourists to flock to their new attraction. The sat upon their huge dirt pile and waited for years. Yet sadly, no tourists were willing to pay the then ridiculous sum of 28 cents to see the great pit of Utah (apparently at about this same time, a "Grander" pit was made known to the public by those jerks from down south in AZ. and everyone wanted to go there instead).

The large crowd of workers were heartbroken at this unfortunate turn of events and soon all left for bigger and greater things in Antarctica.

About a hundred years later, local climbing bums began to get bored with putting up obvious classic climbs on cliffs with fantastic rock and began to yearn for something worse. They would meet nightly on the great Rock Canyon sand pile to diss the fantastic rock found on the south side of the canyon and openly wished for something scarier.

It was at about this time that a stranger from the deep hidden rain forests of Upper Yugoslavia appeared on the scene. He brought with him the skills earned on the scare-fests from behind the Iron Curtain where using actual proven climbing methods was illegal and a proponent of such would swiftly find himself stuffed into a tiny box by the KGB.

He began to dig away at the Rock Canyon sand pile, surviving only on a diet of Bananas and his own sweat. After about 300 feet of said digging, he discovered that the weight of all the former pit diggers sitting upon the pile had slightly (note: "slightly") metamorphosed the sand into rock. After digging out the resulting "rock" (the debris from this digging can still be seen littering the hillside below) a cliff had appeared. The locals soon found that the rock had just what they were hoping for! A pile of scary crap to bolt to their heart content. After long bolting sessions, these climbers would then trick others into trying these so called "blue collar" climbs with the rumor of a great treasure left by the original pit workers in a cave somewhere in the area. If only it could be found.

As the unsuspecting climbers would scratch and claw their way upwards (some carried large burlap bags to hold all the bullion they hope to bring back with them) the locals would gather at a special place at the base of the cliff to point and laugh at the fear being displayed. They would drink beer and enjoy a "special" batch of brownies that were both mixed into a huge bowl. Looking back on these days all participants fondly remembered this "super bowl" of goodies.

The moral of the story: I dunno... I thought of this story while climbing this route. The first pitch was crap but the rest was really fun. Thanks for all the hard work Perin and keep it up bud!

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Jan 17, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Dude... that... is one of the weirdest things I've ever read.

(He tried to tell me the story as he was climbing the second pitch but I made him stop. I had hoped he forgot about it...).

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jan 17, 2009

I must have a deviant affection for choss; I kind of like the first pitch.

By darrell hodges
Feb 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought the bulge part on P1 was fairly difficult. Bad feet under the overhang, slopey shallow pumpy handholds.
Maybe I missed the good hold?

By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Jul 24, 2009

Ryan Anderson08 and I did this climb yesterday. It was the first multi pitch either of us have done and we were so elated when we got to the top! We didn't have a current map with us when we started, so I think we started on El Crapitan. Then we snuck acrosse the ledge to the overhang that I guess is part of the first pitch to Plantains. We probably combined two and or three different climbs, or skipped bolts and chains we should've seen, but we did it in 4 pitches and had a fantastic climb. There needs to be an app on the iphone were you can look at maps and routes. Of course that would only be helpful if you BRING THE CAMERA AND PHONE UP WITH YOU....RYAN!! We obviously forgot to, and are kicking ourselves for not getting any pics while we were up there. We'll just have to do it again. I think that bulgy overhang start is harder than a 5.9, but the rest fits.

By Chasem
Nov 8, 2009

Great route. Thanks for putting it up and posting it on MP.

Pitch 1 is a bit spicy for 5.9. I'd put it 10a as well. Super fun choss. Linked 2nd and 3rd pitches without much rope drag--just be sure to bring 6-8 slings. Can't wait to get on the others on Bad Bananas.

By Nathaniel Holt
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 13, 2012

The first pitch is actually my favorite! Great exposure and the toughest pitch IMO

By Josh Allred
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

3 stars when linked with Trilogy.

By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Jun 20, 2013

I like to link the first two pitches of Brain Full of Spiders and then the third pitch of Feral Debutantes or Good Plantains (both of which have a stellar third pitch) and then head over to Trilogy.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Jul 2, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First time climbing rock canyon and I love it. This was an amazing climb with some incredible exposure. Bolted like a gym, would be a great place to take someone for their first multi pitch. Was eyeing routes on left and definitely wanna try them out.

If doing it a second time, I would top out at third pitch and rap down.