Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan McCool, Britt Bassett, and Brad Esser, 1982
Page Views: 2,423 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Introduction Suggest change

Brain Damage was the warm-up, first ascent for the Arizona party that also put up Thunder Road. It took two days to complete because of storms.

Daniel McCool wrote about this route in Summit Magazine but left out the names of his friends. Perhaps this lost information will be found now that this route is posted on Mountainproject.

Route Description Suggest change

On the right hand apron of Pope's Nose, there is a "long, narrow pillar resting against the face". Like a Yosemite pinnacle, there are classic jam cracks on each side of the pillar. The Arizona party split into two teams and climbed both sides calling it: "160 feet of the finest 5.9 jamming and liebacking we'd seen in awhile".

Very approximate guess.

Above the pillar, the second pitch is the crux (5.9+). Last, a moderate third pitch leads to the top and Fern Gully descent.

Protection Suggest change

Rack.

Photos

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