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 ADVANCED
MBA Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenalyzer 
Bad Manners 
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete 
Brain Dead Ted 
Broken Arrow 
Cliff Hanger 
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart 
Dan's Manners 
Fatal Attraction 
Feeding Frenzy 
Good Man Dan 
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack 
Left Behind 
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) 
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar 
Milk Dud, The 
Mini Me 
Minor Trad Achievement 
Mournful Mullet 
Nader 
No Manners aka Hodat 
Oblivious 
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line 
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) 
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters 
Sick Minds Think Alike 
Spike 
Stoney Middleton 
Table Manners 
Twenty Something Arete 
Wazup? aka Buchanan 

Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie, ~1992.
Page Views: 2,521
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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William working the bottom of Brain Cloud. Fat Fin...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the sharp arete about 40 yards west of the top access between Table Top and Industrial Buttress.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. TR: Be careful, as the bolts are on a ledge about 15 feet below the top - belay recommended. Some long slings (10 foot) are nice to save wear and tear on the rope.



Photos of Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Excellent, varied route!
Excellent, varied route!
Bob Davis on Brain Cloud.
Bob Davis on Brain Cloud.
Canadian enjoying the sun!
Canadian enjoying the sun!
Eric Droogsma took this photo w/ a disposable, so the quality sucks.
Eric Droogsma took this photo w/ a disposable, so ...
Peter Dillon nearing the crux.
Peter Dillon nearing the crux.
04-DEC-2004.
BETA PHOTO: 04-DEC-2004.
Comments on Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2001

The third bolt that protects the crux has a spinning hanger. This bolt should be inspected by the boys with the Bosch to determine if it needs to be replaced. Great route.

By Doug Redosh
Jan 8, 2003

Fairly continuous route, though the bolts are at your feet at the 2 cruxes. The moves are frog like. Being a neurologist I cannot resist the name of this route. From the same anchors, one can toprope Shadow of a Hangdog aka Fat Fingers to the right (a sandbag at 10a/b) and Mandela aka Leaning Pillar to the left. There are 3 bolts trending right of the roof on "Shadow" leading to a 2 bolt anchor that is accesssible easily from the Brain Cloud anchors. This latter, somewhat contrived, route seems 11ish, and just left of the Stony Middleton corner. Therefore, we were able to TR 3 other routes, after leading Brain Cloud.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 25, 2003

How long has that fake hand-hold been there? Somebody put some glue on this route.

By Paul Sampson
Aug 3, 2004

Where is the fake hold? I climbed the route last week (after last climbing it five to seven years ago) and didn't notice anything like that. The route certainly doesn't need it. The moves are moderate and fun.

By Michael Amato
Dec 5, 2004

I think AC is referring to the obvious, inconsequential 6 inch wide white edge at the top of the pillar above the first bolt, before you arrive at the arete proper... looks like an accumulation of 100 years of bird shit. Try staying straight up the arete past the second and third bolt - the holds are a bit reachy, but the climbing is quality.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Apr 25, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

FIRST ASCENT 1992ish: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 25, 2008

Pre-bolts, this was a TR known as Shadow Arete.