|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||John Bragg, Ric Hatch|
|Submitted By:||Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2009|
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By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
The initial corner and some of the ceiling holds stay wet, days after having rained due to the vegetation and dirt in the upper corner holding water. In wet conditions the initial moves to get to the roof were more difficult than the traverse out right.
The crux is hanging on to place the gear in the initial corner and ceiling. The climbing gets easier as you move right to a good rest stance. This is followed by a good sequence of moves to get to the welcoming horizontal above.
The upper right facing corner is dirty, but the climbing is easy and provides the most logical line to the rappel tree.
By Dana Bartlett
Aug 22, 2010
|Try cutting and pasting next time; it's quicker.|
Aug 23, 2010
From: SL UT
Sep 18, 2010
|The Williams guide suggests this route offers some brilliant climbing- that seems strange to me- this route has nearly nothing going for it. Great achievement for 1975, but it was clearly never even "good".|
Jul 10, 2011
|Don't do the left easier variation above and you get 3-4 stars. My rating is G-R. The first corner takes micronuts and it's a bitch to place them- especially when you see pointed rock that your butt would hit if you peel off. Placing the gear up to below the 4 feet right traverse 20 feet up is the crux, the rest is fine and enjoyable climbing. Next time I'll put bouldering pad over the above mentioned pointy rock. Did I say don't do the left side variation?|