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Bradbury Mt. State Park

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Bradbury Mt. State Park  


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Location: 43.9002, -70.1795 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,126
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Dec 11, 2007
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Description 

Quaint boulders nestled among forests and furry woodland creatures.

Heinously sharp, large grain granite boulders- crystals are the dominant feature, also look for sloping aretes, crimps, and the occasional generation hold. Some highballs, lots of potential for new routes. really fun.

Shady and sunny, depends on aspect, etc.


Getting There 

Exit 24 on I-295 in Maine. If coming from the North, take a left at the end of the ramp and follow obvious signs. better directions coming later...

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bradbury Mt. State Park:
Clear the Deck   V2-3 5+     Boulder   Lower Boulder
Grown Ocean   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   The Cornerstone
Diamond Bollocks   V8 7B     Boulder, 20'   The Lodestone
Browse More Classics in Bradbury Mt. State Park

Featured Route For Bradbury Mt. State Park
Purgatory is a classic line that sees few repeats ...

Purgatory V8 7B  ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Cornerstone
Start siting under roof, left hand side pull and right hand crimp. The crux is getting over the buldge and getting all the weight onto your feet. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Bradbury Mt. State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kris McNeill
Jun 10, 2009
Does anybody have a map showing the routes on the boulders. I've been there climbing many times but I don't know which route is which. Even a hand drawn sketch would be cool!
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 23, 2010
Thanks for adding this area. I developed the majority of the problems here in the early 90s and will be posting photos of the boulders in the next week or so.
By John Agee
Jul 28, 2010
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I've always wondered about the names and grades of these problems. Bradbury is a very special place, and it's awesome that the landowner is so chill about light use.

What about the problems on the Southwest side of the upper boulder? I really enjoy the highball straight up the middle with the crux being the vertical section down low, crystal pinching gaston, etc.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Mar 8, 2013
Great after class spot for Bates students... sharp but fun and some real gems!
By Mark Ra
From: Mid-Atlantic/CO
Oct 30, 2014
Admittedly I am a terrible novice climber but Bradbury shredded my fingers and I was barely able to climb anything. It's a cool spot and I'll be back when I can give it a better go. Found some easier rock at Jockey Cap.

After flailing around on some of the routes posted here I ended up just lapping short V-easy warm ups on this little rock. I think it was the one you hit first when coming in from the park side. Just above The Cornerstone.
Warm up rock at Bradbury.
Warm up rock at Bradbury.