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Bradbury Mt. State Park

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Cornerstone, The 
Lodestone, The 
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Bradbury Mt. State Park  

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Location: 43.9002, -70.1795 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,027
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Dec 11, 2007  with updates from Louis Eubank
Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
40° | 18°
39° | 34°
Chance of Rain
60° | 38°
41° | 25°
Partly Cloudy
38° | 22°
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Quaint boulders nestled among forests and furry woodland creatures.

Heinously sharp, large grain granite boulders- crystals are the dominant feature, also look for sloping aretes, crimps, and the occasional generation hold. Some highballs, lots of potential for new routes. really fun.

Shady and sunny, depends on aspect, etc.

Getting There 

Exit 24 on I-295 in Maine. If coming from the North, take a left at the end of the ramp and follow obvious signs.

Once at Bradbury Mountain St. Park, take an immediate right after the gate to the lower parking lot. Head up trail at end of parking lot "Summit .6 miles".

Head up trail for a quarter mile-ish, past a few wooden staircases. At Y jxn with small map, head left to overlook. See large signs that state end of Bradbury Mountain State Park, and walk right past them. Head directly down hill.

You should run directly into Southern Boulder or slightly to skier's right of it. The remaining problems are a hundred yards climber's left of Southern Boulder.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bradbury Mt. State Park:
Clear the Deck   V2-3 5+     Boulder   Lower Boulder
Grown Ocean   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   The Cornerstone
Diamond Bollocks   V8 7B     Boulder, 20'   The Lodestone
Browse More Classics in Bradbury Mt. State Park

Featured Route For Bradbury Mt. State Park
Nice winter zone

Vulcan V5+ 6C+  ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : Vulcan Area
Start matched hand in vertical low left corner. Move up right through sloper and eventually right hand Vulcan grip and left hand slooper, continue straight up. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Bradbury Mt. State Park Add Comment
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By caesar.salad
From: southern Maine
Mar 8, 2015
Anyone been up here to check the snow levels? I'm hoping things melt fast.
By Kris McNeill
Jun 10, 2009
Does anybody have a map showing the routes on the boulders. I've been there climbing many times but I don't know which route is which. Even a hand drawn sketch would be cool!
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 23, 2010
Thanks for adding this area. I developed the majority of the problems here in the early 90s and will be posting photos of the boulders in the next week or so.
By John Agee
Jul 28, 2010
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I've always wondered about the names and grades of these problems. Bradbury is a very special place, and it's awesome that the landowner is so chill about light use.

What about the problems on the Southwest side of the upper boulder? I really enjoy the highball straight up the middle with the crux being the vertical section down low, crystal pinching gaston, etc.
By Morgan Patterson
Mar 8, 2013
Great after class spot for Bates students... sharp but fun and some real gems!
By Mark Ra
From: Mid-Atlantic/CO
Oct 30, 2014
Admittedly I am a terrible novice climber but Bradbury shredded my fingers and I was barely able to climb anything. It's a cool spot and I'll be back when I can give it a better go. Found some easier rock at Jockey Cap.

After flailing around on some of the routes posted here I ended up just lapping short V-easy warm ups on this little rock. I think it was the one you hit first when coming in from the park side. Just above The Cornerstone.
Warm up rock at Bradbury.
Warm up rock at Bradbury.
By caesar.salad
From: southern Maine
Jan 7, 2015
FYI: These boulders are on private land. Be respectful and clean up after yourselves. The landowner doesn't mind climbers; let's keep it that way.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 8, 2015
Good advice about keeping a low profile. Thanks for posting it!
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