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Bozoo

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Bond Wall 
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Bozoo Bouldering 
Double-Tier Wall 
Farm Wall 
Iceberg Area 
Necro Wall 
Rigor Wall 
Savory Area 
Simpson Wall 
White Wall 

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Bozoo 


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Location: 37.4764, -80.87 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 83,233
Administrators: Jay Shultis, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Michael Rose on May 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Established Bozoo Areas Found on MP.
Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Routes
Short little cliff band outside of Bozoo, WV at the Shanklin's Ferry campground. Rarely crowded with a decent variety of routes. Most of the routes are south facing but are shaded well by foliage in summer. Routes here are generally Trad or Mixed with an occasional Sport climb. Top-roping is often easy to setup and is a great place to learn, as well as push your limits. Several of the climbs have rap anchors in the popular areas.

Topo
Paul Sullivan created an awesome topo that many of us had poorly copied versions of "back in the day." Ian Herring dug up an early clean version and scanned it in, Paul has typed on top of that many of the lined climbed in his groups last round of development as well as the few lines that have gone up since. Utilizing this topo in combination with the info in this database should assist your efforts in exploring the lesser known climbs of the area. It prints well. FYI, there are still errors, and some of the TR projects ave since been lead, but it is a great start and we will continue to polish this pebble over time. Bozoo Route Topo

Geology
The rock type is often thought to be the same as found at the New River Gorge: Nuttall Sandstone. Though, it is similar, the rock found at Bozoo is technically part of the Hinton Formation. It often appears to be more compacted than the rock at the new, often creating a smooth bullet hard patina. Geology Formations

Bouldering
While Bozoo is considered an excellent "local" crag. The bouldering is above and beyond your average run of the mill local spot. The deteriorating cliff band has provided us with 2.5 miles of boulders and "mini-cliff" made of coveted, bullet hard, fine grain, sandstone. Many people have experienced samplings of the Main Area below the Iceberg Wall. Areas have been developed from Shanklin's Ferry road all the way till the boulders finally stop appearing several miles down stream. The rock is generally featured, but you do not find an over-abundance of holds. This creates an excellent bouldering experience where problem solving is crucial. You will find all kinds of problems here, but it is amazing how many beautiful lines exist here in the V4-V8 Range. At this time there are no known double digit lines, but there is opportunity knocking if you can push those numbers up.


Getting There (+37į 28' 34.76", -80į 52' 10.24") 

Going East on 460 from Blacksburg. Turn Right on Rt 219 at Rich Creek, Va. (just past the town of Narrows and a really curvy section of road along a rock cut). Follow 219 as it makes an immediate right then an immediate left. Go 1.75 miles and turn Left onto Rt. 12 at the Family Dollar store. Go 1.1 miles then take a slight Left onto Bozoo Rd. (no sign) just past a sharp righthand curve and Stanley Hill Rd. (If you start going up a long hill, you have gone too far). Go 4.8 miles then take a slight Left onto Shanklin's Ferry Rd. at the Bozoo Christian Church that is on the righthand side of the road. Go 1.7 miles to a sharp righthand curve followed immediately by a sharp lefthand curve then .4 miles later stay left onto Shanklins Ferry rd. at the Shanklin's Ferry Campground and WV State Park sign. Go down the curvy hill .9 miles to a slight Right onto a gravel road. A sign there directs you to a Boat Launch, Beach, and Playground. This is just past the sign stating that Beer and Alcohol are prohibited in the park. Follow Gravel road .6 miles to the Self Register Kiosk and then go right. Park on the lefthand side of the road just before it curves left, across from campsites 78 and 79. The trail leaving the campground from behind campsite 79 goes to the downstream areas (Simpson's, Bovine, Bond). The trail leaving the corner of the field approximately 100 yards to the right of campsite 79 goes to the upstream areas (Savory, White, Iceberg, and Necro). (GPS coordinates above should get you close).


Climbing Season


323 Total Routes


['4 Stars',28],['3 Stars',87],['2 Stars',112],['1 Star',44],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',10],['5.8',17],['5.9',26],['5.10',30],['5.11',20],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',27],['V2-3',68],['V4-5',64],['V6-7',36],['V8-9',10],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bozoo:
Balance Arete   V2 5+     Boulder   Downstream Boulderfield : A: Air Jordy Boulder
Sloper Proj Left Arete   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Sloper Project Area : Sloper Proj Boulder
D   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 8'   BoulderCliff Area : Sloper Madness Boulder
Shanklin's Ceiling   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Main Area Bouldering : F. The Bozoo Roof
French Tits   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   Project Area : Ape Rage Boulder
Roadside Euphoria   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   Roadside : Roadisde Euphoria Boulder
Fat City   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 50'   Rigor Wall
Icebreaker   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 50'   Iceberg Area
Thru-Mortise   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   Rigor Wall
Birth Canal   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   White Wall
Barking Spiders   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 40'   Iceberg Area
Savory Truffle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 45'   Savory Area
Chunks   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 65'   White Wall
Groove Machine    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   White Wall
Chucks Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Iceberg Area
Tip of the Iceberg   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 40'   Iceberg Area
Bovine Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   Bovine Area
Limehouse   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Bovine Area
Rigor Mortise   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 50'   Rigor Wall
Marge   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Simpson Wall
Browse More Classics in Bozoo

Featured Route For Bozoo
Obvious arete

Roadside Euphoria V6 7A  WV : Bozoo : ... : Roadisde Euphoria Boulder
Super classic! SDS with left undercling and right sidepull. Work your way up through a line of holds before moving up again using Left hand on the arete using slopers and pinches and Right hand on sidepull's. Excellent top-out jug.Alt Start: SDS at base of slab where Arete curls under on a slopey dish and a nice L foot edge. Make a couple moves around the bottom of the arete to same Left hand on arete and right hand sidepulls on face. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Bozoo Slideshow Add Photo
View from Shanklin's Ferry Campground. Simpson's, rigor, and Bovine Walls on left outcrop. Necro, Iceberg, and White Walls on the right.
View from Shanklin's Ferry Campground. Simpson's, ...
Stefan on the iceberg
Stefan on the iceberg
An early ascent of the Birth Canal, originally graded 5.8
An early ascent of the Birth Canal, originally gra...
Parking area. The trail head to downstream areas begins to left of truck in corner of campground. Trail head to Upstream areas to right of truck in corner of field.
BETA PHOTO: Parking area. The trail head to downstream areas b...
Comments on Bozoo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 26, 2014
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 4, 2009

I have started adding routes to the area. I am new to the area so if you know any additional info on the routes just let me know and I will update. I also gave names to routes because I couldn't find names to most of the boulder problems here ( I think giving them names is better then calling it Unknown #1 etc). If any of these routes have names, again just let me know and I will change it.

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Aug 8, 2009

Did you check rockclimbing.com for problem names? I know there is a huge amount of boulders up there and I climbed a roof problem in bozoo that was barely even mentioned online even though the line was really amazing. I don't think it could hurt to put the information out about any problems you find there for other people to read, even if it has been done before. It would really help climbers who are not immediate locals to the area trying to find good boulder lines at Bozoo (like me).

By frankwhite
Sep 7, 2009

I think this best way to go about finding names/info (prior to posting anything...how would you like your FAs re-named?) is to hook up with the local scene, in my experience. It may take a bit...but this is the south. That being said most are friendly and willing to show folks stuff, just as long as access and history are preserved. Doing otherwise tends to just bruise those inroads before you make them. Just my experience. And I know from having lived in the area, many of the above names/grades are incorrect...please do this site, yourself, and the scene you are a guest of, a favor...ask around for a tour. Thats what I did, and was met with openess.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Sep 7, 2009

Frank,
Thanks for the info, I totally get your point, and did not intend to step on local history. I am definitely not claiming FAs or naming rights. I merely put names up as place holders (see previous post) before I forgot about the route. By all means please post the real names and I will quickly and gladly change them. The ratings I posted were about what I thought they were when I climbed these routes over the past month.

I met and climbed with many really awesome locals (the climbers in this area are great!). However no one really seems to know any names, history on the area bouldering yet...
You should PM me with the needed changes, and add some of the routes. It would really be appreaciated.
Thanks!
Travis

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Sep 18, 2009

Thanks to those of you who have contacted me with historical info and names! Any more out there?

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Sep 20, 2009

Found some gear here last weekend (Sept 13th). PM me if you think you lost something here.

By joecl
Nov 7, 2009

this comment is directed toward travis. before i dig into this little thing here, i want to make it absolutely clear that i intend no harm out of what i am about to say. with that out of the way: you need to start speaking to locals before you post fa's, or start "adding routes" to an area that has seen climbing for over 30 years. don't assume that because it isn't on mountain project, no one has been there. my advice to you, travis, is to seek out people who have established routes and problems at bozoo and get confirmation from them. i'm not going to name any names because i don't have their permission, but you can easily contact these guys by going down to the BRMS shop, or asking the names of the route-setters at the local gym. as far as new routes are concerned, there's maybe two or three projects left at bozoo, they're located at the french tits boulder. the newest problems you've posted pics of, what you've been calling D1, etc. are boulders that several climbers (again, i'm not naming names through lack of permission), including myself, have cleaned--and climbed--in the past. why do you think those boulders have a well-manicured trail leading to them? why do you think those boulders have cleaned topouts and landings? why do you think those boulders have chalk all over them? the reason you didn't find a sack of information about bozoo on mountain project is because the climbing is a hair's distance from private property. have you seen the posted signs leading up to the trad wall? those are there because someone owns that land. access to bozoo has always been a very touchy subject, and in the past--last year, for example--climbers haven't legally had permission to go up there. we keep information on local bouldering areas local because we don't want to lose access. please, if you want a tour of the area, there are climbers in blacksburg (who've been climbing at bozoo for at least a decade) that will show you everything that's out there. right now, though, you're stepping on a lot of people's toes. i suggest you remove what you've posted until you're 100% sure the name and grade, and not post anything you may think is "new" until you're sure on that, as well. just a heads up, man. (this is a side note, but that pic of you on the roof problem at what you're calling the "left sector," you see that red stick clip with a brush on it? yeah, that belongs to me. i'm sure you saw that the brush didn't have any bristles left. you know why that is? because it was used to clean all those boulders out there. think before you damage what could be positive relationships with our community)

-joe

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Nov 7, 2009

Joecl,
OBVIOUSLY, these lines have been climbed many, many, many times before. (yes I saw all the chalk and your old brush). Please notice that I did NOT at ANY POINT claim FAs. I have been in contact with a few people who claim they established the FAs in the late 90s. They have a hand drawn guide to the boulders. I just need to meet up with them sometime to get a copy of it... The 'names' I gave them are just placeholders until I can get the real deal.

No one I have spoken with so far has mentioned access being an issue. The landowner sounds to be both aware of; and OK with climbers on the property (at least thats the word from all the locals I have talked to). Clearly you must be comfortable enough with his property to be establishing trails and 'manicuring' the trees.

Do you know of any of the history? FAs? Route names? Just email them to me and I will change them quickly.

My side note: Please read the previous posts. I think this stuff has already been addressed, and several people have email me with what they believe are the correct names etc.

Finally: Lets meet up for a bouldering session. Got any afternoons free? There is a ton of stuff I havent done out there yet.

By joecl
Nov 7, 2009

the land the climbing sits on is a nature preserve, but there is a rather sizeable farm just above the cliff line. the trails are located on the nature preserve, but as with most bouldering areas in the southeast, access is always a concern, whether you're climbing at HP40 or a lesser known area, such as this. my mistake to say you were claiming FA's, and i'm glad you've been in touch with other area climbers trying to find information, but you've just got to realize that you might be heading for an uphill battle trying to get all of bozoo's climbing information accurately on mountain project. the guys you've spoken to are going to give you a hand made topo of the area, that should tip you off that this place is low-key. i didn't intend to exude an air of jack-ass-ness, though i know what i said was harsh. don't mistake me for a butt-hurt local trying to keep his crag 'locals only.' i want everyone to be able to climb this area as it has some of the most beautiful sandstone around with an extremely high concentration of quality boulder problems. i just think that before you do any official mountain projecting of bozoo--or any area, for that matter (the you here is referential)--you should have every bit of possible information on said area in order to guarantee an accurate and well-rounded guide.

as i'm only a boulderer, i don't know any of the routes at the walls, but i do know most the boulder problems at the main area, and as previously mentioned, we've been working on up-keep further downriver. i don't have your email, so pm me and i'll explain as much as i can on that.

again, i'm not trying to step on your toes, just as i'm sure you're not trying to step on mine, or anyone else's.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Nov 7, 2009

Fast response...Glad to hear we are on the same page. No worries on the whole butt-hurt thing, you may however want to invest in a thicker crashpad if the condition gets any worse.

I actually PMed you a few minutes ago (unless the email you gave wasnt legit).

The guys with the topo actually seemed pleased when I told them about posting the routes etc. It sounded like they might like the history to be out online (and werent interested in doing it themselves)(probably they are climbing, not nerding online like us). So my thinking was this was the best way to get it out, and to have some sort of guide/reference list out.

To PM just click on my name and it will open an direct message to me.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 8, 2009

Let me know if I can hep out at all from an Administrator point of view.

By Hepler
Nov 12, 2009

I believe the issue here is when the basic bond between the intimacy of a remote and untraveled climbing area and the satisfaction of that existence is threatened by exposure. True, this is an age old battle but is easily avoidable if everyone is satisfied by simply enjoying the woods for what they are and not materializing them into something that is ephemeral and no longer adventurous. Those who have never experienced the unique bond of a new climbing area has no crown to which rule upon. This brings strife and makes one very unwelcome. No authority is respected when transient in nature to those who call this home.

I agree that the incorrect information be removed unless this hole is to be dug deeper. These issues smother the spirit of a climbing area.

By suckaclimb
Nov 16, 2009

tru dat dude!

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Nov 16, 2009

So I have changed the route names I had previously listed, and deleted any names that originated from a dubious source (RC.com).

By Sam Stephens
Jan 20, 2010

Joe,

I just wanted to chime in here on the access thing. I'm president of VT's climbing club and Bozoo is super critical to us. It's a great destination to take beginners and teach people.

That being said, we went through the whole access ordeal when the signs were posted and after going through a few people, a local to the area who knows and has close contact with the new land owner informed us that those signs are to keep hunters out. Climbers are fine.

Like you said, access is a delicate thing and don't think I don't think that. I'm very aware of it and how easily we can damage it.

I think it's great more areas are getting explored over there. I'm not much of a boulderer but I like the small renaissance that's going on there. If I can do anything just let me know.

EDIT:

Also, I don't know if you all are aware, but the land below the no trespassing signs is Army Corp of Engineers land. Just saying.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 9, 2010

Joe and Tyler from Bburg: I think you dropped a neon nalgene on your hike out today. I have it, let me know if you want it...

By Paul DeLapp
Nov 7, 2010

Glad everyone is getting to know our little crag. We have been out of the loop for a while due to jobs and kids. I suggest that if anyone wants information on the routes established you should contact Paul Sullivan. We worked the area alone for years.


Paul DeLapp, M.D.

By P. Sully
Aug 30, 2011

Paul and I were very active at Bozoo in the early 90's. We were mostly interested in roped climbing, and established many of the area's trad routes. If anyone wants to go over my old topos and notes that identify most of the roped climbing please feel free to get in touch.

I would encourage anyone thinking of placing bolts at Bozoo to respect the local ethic of Mixed routes prevailing over Sport. The cliff band is on private land so minimizing impact will best preserve the area for future generations.

Paul Sullivan

By Curt S
Mar 29, 2012

Looking for information about camping at or near Bozoo, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

By eric owen
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Apr 26, 2012

P Scully, I know I have climbed with you and Paul back in the 90's. 94-95 fer sure. I went to Radford and graduated from the outdoor program there. It nice to see the place is still open for climbing. I have been out of the area for some 20 years. Back in VA for a little bit, maybe I check it out again for old times sake.

By MattThomas
From: Durham, NC
Apr 28, 2012

@Curt: You can camp really close to the rocks at the Shanklin's Ferry campground, it's $12 a night. For more info, go here.

By mission
May 27, 2012

Would anyone care to elaborate more on getting to the trail? I made it to Shanklin's Ferry just fine, but I really couldn't tell where to go after that. There was a gravel road leaving Shanklin's Ferry road just after entering the park which I tried. This took me to a large riverside campground in a field, but there weren't any likely-looking trails. (Should I have looked harder? Does anyone recall near which campsite number the trail begins?) I also tried continuing on SF Rd until it turned to gravel, but the immediate right was to a clearly incorrect area with a gazebo, the next right was blocked off, and then I just drive by a series of riverside campgrounds.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 28, 2012

sounds like you were in the right spot (large riverside campground in a field). As you drive in park in the center grass (not in a campsite) at the far back right corner. Trails head to boulders from this corner, as well as the back right corner of the hay field.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 28, 2012

see map listed under 'left sector bouldering'

By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Sep 21, 2012

I have received permission from Paul Sullivan to post his original topo's for the roped climbing at Bozoo.

A scan of my beat up copy can be found here:

Paul Sullivan Bozoo Topo's

I will update it if I get my hands on a cleaner copy. It is missing the Simpson's and Double Tier Wall topo's and descriptions.

By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Nov 20, 2012

FYI, it is Hunting season at Bozoo and you are required to wear 440 Sq. in. of Hunters Orange while you are in the woods! I was warned by the ranger and they are issuing tickets to anyone not wearing the orange. No hunting in WV on Sundays so it should be OK to not wear it then.

-Jay

By shawn mccauley
Jan 18, 2013

Props to the 1996-2002 Bouldering Gang of Andy Quillen, Ed Lyman, Jonathon Kingston, Matt Behrens,Jeremy Kane and "British Mike ď (sorry I can't remember your last name). We worked our #%$@! off developing all these "new" areas near/far and had a blast. I bet there wasn't a day between 1996-02 that there wasn't one of us out there scrubbing and sending. Give a shout if youíre still around.
Travis or Jay, I still have it all written down. I'm not a "Hurt Local" or anything or get caught up in nitty gritty, but think it would be cool to better represent that missing(?) time period, compare notes and have a full history or credit where itís deserved for both old and new stuff. In terms of FA's, I would say if its V8/9 or under assume nothing.
Thanks to the people keeping it alive (Adam W., Paul S., Travis, Jay, VT guys, etc.)!! The effort is appreciated guys. Letís catch up! It would be fun to meet you and revisit it all.
-Shawn

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jan 19, 2013

Awesome! Thanks for all the input Shawn. I would say just keep doing what your doing and Jay or I can edit the name/FA info as you comment. Id say your account of Bozoo history will always supersede the 2nd, 3rd, and 5th hand information that I have about it.

It would be fun to do a Bozoo day sometime after the snow melts and get a bunch of folks out the together at the same time.

By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Jan 20, 2013

Shawn, so psyched to have you on board! This is exactly what Travis and I have been hoping for, an online community for our local areas so we can all document and know the history of what has been done out there.

We will definitely work with you to get the original names and First Ascentionist added to every problem. Credit IS DEf due and even with all the re-discovery I am sure that you can point us to many more great lines, Bozoo is full of them!

-Jay

By bikesrockswaves
Mar 26, 2014

Adding notes on the FA history here, and echoing and adding to Paul Sullivan and Shawn McCauley. Paul Sullivan had produced the early guide to the area and had (with partners) put up most of the routes in the "main areas" immediately up the trail and to right & left.
I was one of the VT Climbing Club crew there (pres & VP), involved in an early wave of development (at VT 95-00). After I started writing this post I actually found my old climbing journal, so can provide some dates & names. The first round of bouldering FAs there would have been Jonathan Kingston (JK), Behrens, Quillin, Kane, Jason Aftosmis, and myself (Chris Chitty?), with the rest of that crew Shawn named quickly showing up and then carrying on after we left (we left VT from ~'97 to '00). But all with an asterisk for unknown boulder FA work by the prior VTCC generation, Rob Becker (prob w Kelly Faust). Not sure what all they did, but our early favorite was "Forbidden Fruit", crack on overhanging boulder left of trail (JK sent 3/27/98 & I did routes right & left, Apples & Oranges) which I later learned was done by Becker prior. Though they weren't as comprehensive in the area, I think just cherry-picked primary stuff. Becker was early Hueco pilgrim, resulting in our club's '96-'97-'98 trips (pre-closure). I'd add Gabe Wilmoth to list of early boulderers/climbers at Bozoo (after one year living in El Paso, quasi-Hueco local), though not sure he was bouldering FA active at Bozoo (?).
On the roped front, the Climbing Club had spring & fall Bozoo campouts throughout my time there. Aside from campfire tales of "Jebediah Stone & the Crag Rat", one of the early campouts (3/27-29/1998) featured an FA day in which the crags far far left of Simpsons wall were visited, notably the "Farm Wall", as follows. I led or 2nd'd 2-3 FAs (assumed) that day. And several others went on in parallel, probably 8-10 new routes up in a day.
- "Moonshine Theory" (Jake Stephens; w Wilmoth?) (.10 crack(s) left of cave w/ overhanging start, excellent; (named for M.Nelson & A. Quillin's conclusion about glass bottles, etc found at cave bottom, and steel cable lowering hardware on tree above) (not clear from my notes if I did this on a prior visit or this day; memory says this day)
- "Peanut Butter & Honey" (5.7?) (Pat Hagarty w Mark Roman; me on 2nd ascent) (Hagarty took first lead fall, pulling off boulder, onto TCU);
- I recall doing a line just left or right of PB&H (right I think)
- "Farmer" & the "Philosopher" (G.Wilmoth & R.Astoria put up two routes (on next walls left).
- "Goatscrew" .11b/c trad, which I noted as best climb at Bozoo, .11b/c(?) just left of cave, just right of Moonshine Theory (G.Wilmoth w J. Stephens) (named after hilarious joke Chris Chitty).
- I think Behrens eventually bolted a line up the cave wall; can't remember. I had notes on a .12 trad/mixed line I wanted to do right of Goatscrew.
- John Perry (yes, seriously) put up a line ~30' left of PB&H.
- I noted cairns at the base of two routes, ~10+ and .9 on the wall right of the cave, which I recall climbing too, but notes are unclear.
I believe we learned later that the tree-cable-hardware was installed by Sullivan or Becker, found nearby, to TR some of cave. Can't recall all else, but don't believe they led any lines there. We cleaned material boulders & lichen & such off several lines; pretty sure not done prior to us. Those two cairned routes though I'd assume were done.
I hope this is helpful. Props to everyone involved out there and Paul's work in particular pioneering the area. We had a lot of fun and forged a lot of great friendships out there. All above occurred after Paul's guide (I remember being stoked to get an early xerox copy).
I have contact info for almost everyone listed above if anyone wants it. Shawn & Paul, great to see your names & comments. Glad to know the Climbing Club is still out there... Maybe I should comment on Burruss Hall & McAfee's Knob FA's elsewhere... :)
Fun reading this old journal. Shawn, I found notes from the day I (apparently) took you out to McAfee's for the first time; rad times. I love that place; know you spent a ton of time there. Cheers to BOZOO and good days climbing with good people. -Jake (in Tucson)