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Bozoo Bouldering

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Bozoo Bouldering  

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Elevation: 1,600'
Location: 37.4761, -80.87 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,880
Administrators: Jay Shultis, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Shultis on Jan 27, 2013
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Bozoo Topo which shows the general locations of bo...

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Bozoo has long been considered a "local crag." This idea along with it's back wood's locale and it's proximity to the New River Gorge has kept the bouldering at Bozoo under the radar. Don't let this fool you, the bouldering here is excellent and holds it's own against many hyped up bouldering locations. If you are a V9+ climber this is not your spot unless you want to develop. There are many beginner problems here but the large number of moderates in the V4-V8 range is where Bozoo really shines.

Development has gone on quietly at Bozoo for 20 years. Many that have passed through have contributed to the development but their efforts have just barely been "documented" through a fragmented oral tradition. With the help of several early developers we are working to create a solid online database and history of the Bozoo Bouldering here on MP.

The first wave of dedicated developers were Shawn MaCauley, Andy Quillen, Ed Lyman, Jonathon Kingston, Matt Behrens, Jeremy Kane, British Mike, Philip Mothena and Kenny Parker from about 94'-04'. A second wave of development and "re-development" happened between 2004 and 2012 by Truc Allen, Adam Walker, Josh Hepler, Travis Melin and others.

Bouldering at Bozoo is super beta and weather intensive, more so than many places you will visit. Don't be surprised to get stymied on problems well below your level. This also makes even the easier problems worth trying. Grades are considered stiff by many. My experience is that if you can boulder a certain grade here it will translate well to many other boulderfield.

Though Bozoo is boulder-able year round you will suffer badly in the summer. The whole area is generally south facing and seems to have a solar oven effect in the river valley. For the dedicated sender, ideal temps are around 35-50 degrees and sunny for most of the south facing problems and 50-60 for what you can find in the shade. This is a great Winter Bouldering location. If it is mid-winter and sunny, you can climb here, even after snow on a sunny day. The rock is also less sensitive to failure after rain/snow than other local areas like McAfee's. Please stay away from flakes immediately after the rain.

Thanks to Bingo Bango for putting together this video to show a good sampling of 5 Main Area Classics (Hershey Squirt, Driver 8, Firepole, Grinding for Tips, The Pocket Problem) and French Tits (Ape Rage) over in the Project Area.

Getting There 

Follow directions to the Main Bozoo crag to access most of the areas. Some of the sub-areas have different approaches that will be described in their descriptions.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.6 miles from here

218 Total Routes

['4 Stars',26],['3 Stars',48],['2 Stars',71],['1 Star',32],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bozoo Bouldering:
F: Balance Arete   V2 5+     Boulder   Downstream Boulderfield : A: Air Jordy Boulder
Sloper Proj Left Arete   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Sloper Project Area : Sloper Proj Boulder
D   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 8'   BoulderCliff Area : Sloper Madness Boulder
Shanklin's Ceiling   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Main Area Bouldering : G. The Bozoo Roof
French Tits   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   Project Area : Ape Rage Boulder
Sloper Ledges (placeholder name)   V6 7A     Boulder, 10'   Sloper Project Area : Sloper Proj Boulder
Roadside Euphoria   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   Roadside : Roadisde Euphoria Boulder
Browse More Classics in Bozoo Bouldering

Featured Route For Bozoo Bouldering
so good!

Hermit Cave V6 7A  WV : Bozoo : ... : C3: Hermit's Cave
Start deep in the cave. Please do not pull hard on the mostly detached block in center (should have an X on it). Use an undercling behind and right of this block in addition to the high left jug/edge. Still works as a proper SDS. Pull off the ground to match on the good huge sidepull, then bump out low and left. Continue out and up using dynamic movement. Crux seems to be pulling into the face, get creative! Excellent fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Bozoo Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
Philip Mothena sending Shanklin's Ceiling (V5)  Ph...
Philip Mothena sending Shanklin's Ceiling (V5) Ph...

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