Bozo No No 

I used to climb this route with some regularity about seven or eight years ago. I quit doing it after a 1/4 inch bolt pulled right out in my friend's finger tips. That single bolt wasn't essential to protect the route, but the experience was rather disconcerting. Does anyone know if the bolts have been replaced?

I don't think any of the bolts are 1/4 anymore. Heads up between the first and second bolts, though - groundfall territory. A very good, sustained route that doesn't really offer a rest until you're lowering from the anchors.

When I put up this route there was not a single bolt on the line. Just after that a bolting ban was imposed.

This climb feels nice, continous, very cool.

Does anyone know if the bolts on this climb are kosher? This summer I noticed the hangers were spinning on a few and I'm going to be in town for Thanksgiving weekend and I'd like to lead it, let me know...Thanks!!

I led this last April and didn't test out any of the bolts beside the anchor bolts. Nothing remarkable that I remember as far as being a bad bolt or a spinner, so they should be ok. It would be a good idea to check first on TR or rappell if there's suspicion though. I think that some of these bolts have been replaced since the originals but can't be sure.

it's tough to judge this one until you have spent some serious time on it. there are a number of variations that could drop the rating on this, and it is easy to wander on a top-rope, but as long as you [consistently] check yourself in relation to the route, i think you can get an accurate 5.12 c rating. there is one sloper-hole that is just to left of the central line about 25 ft up. i would [recommend] using this with both your left hand and flag it with your left foot while moving past this extended crux. happy climbing!

It is not often I come out and say things like this but 12c is insane... I have no idea what would get you there....-tom

Yeah, I would have to say that 5.12c is a pretty far leap for this climb. It's hard for me to compare this climb to 'Bat out of Hell' at Cave Rock. I was surprised by the 5.11c recommendations, and I know it cannot be 12c because I cannot lead 12c, yet I pulled this one off. Not that any of this actually matters it's still one of the best climbs in the canyon.

I never stated that Bozo No No was 12c. If I inadvertantly typoed such a rating I apologize. I would say that Bozo is more like 11a/b.

I don't know how I have been credited with giving Bozo a 12c rating.My guide lists it as 11a.It looks like Dan Mottinger added this route to the website as 11a and subsequently people have added 11c as the rating.Rex Mammel made an entry here on 04, 08, 2002, claiming the FA in 1992.I had thought that this was a Chis "Drag" Drysdale route. Is Rex Mammel a pen name for Chis Drysdale?Am I wrong in my belief that Chris did the FA?\

The first bolt on this puppy is spinning like there is no tomorrow...and had separated from the wall considerably.... The rest were fine though. Awesome line! Really, really fun!

Great climb but a hail storm stopped me at the third bolt. Hope to finish it soon.

First bolt is hard to clip, as it spins very loosely. Could be suspect to failure in a f2 fall, but I could hang on it pretty safely. Run out at the crux but you can head right towards the crack for easier climbing.

The climber is on Bozo No No, not Rain Dance. You can see the crux crack of RD in the right of the photo.

Seems a little easier than 5.11-, maybe 5.10c/d? Or maybe it's that you don't need a secret decoder ring to find the holds, so it seems easier than other 5.11 in the canyon.