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 ADVANCED
Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno ArÍte S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

Boy's World 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter
Page Views: 1,089
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: AAArete and Boy's World.

Photo by Vaino Kodas@SEM...

Description 

Take short but nice V-slot dihedral (the one on the right with a pine coming out of the bottom....it's much cleaner than the one on the left) straight up and exit left or right on top for belay.

It's possible to belay or lower from the 2-bolt anchor atop AAArete just to the left, or continue a bit higher and set a gear/sling anchor around boulders, then walk off to the right.


Protection 

Standard rack, small rack.



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If it were much longer, it would be great....
If it were much longer, it would be great....
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By Nate Harris
Sep 25, 2002

Not a very exciting route IMO. It's fairly short, and there's only one move in the range of 5.8, everything else is easy.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 1, 2002

Did this a while back but I recall mostly small pro, some behind less-than-ideal flakes. Felt weird for 5.8. I agree about "short" but the pro led to a feeling like perhaps this ain't the best beginner route to hop upon.

One star at most.

By ClimbandMine
Mar 6, 2005

Did this today. 5.8? No way. 5.6 or .7 maybe - and one or two moves at that. My partner placed two pieces, and one of them seemed iffy. Didn't need more than that.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 8, 2006

I thought this was quite nice for a beginner's climb. It looked hard from below, and so I was surprised by the big holds on the first half. Fun stemming leads past the crux.