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 ADVANCED
The Love Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adolescent Behavior S 
Boy's Don't Cry S 
Newton's Law 
Shakin' Like Milk S 
We Don't Need No Stinking Badges S 

Boy's Don't Cry 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Borne and others
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.

Description 

This route is the hardest of the Love Nest routes and takes the line of strength up the center of the block.

Starting just left of Shakin' Like Milk climb the thin face upward to a distinct bouldery crux at the third bolt. Above this the difficulties ease considerably, but don't celebrate yet as the final section is a thin and very balancy slab section which will remind you you're still in Josh.

Fingery moves down low and a delicate vertical slab finish make this a great route which requires a variety of techniques to succeed. Three stars out of five.


Protection 

6 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")



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By Randy
Dec 20, 2003
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Staying more to the right at the crux makes the route definitely easier. The slabby section at the top actually is concave and overhangs a bit for the last move.

By Josh Beck
Nov 22, 2004

The start of this otherwise excellent route has broken. It will still go but looks much more difficult with a clear boulder problem at the bottom. Possible to traverse in from Shakin' Like Milk but it's a solo if you aren't on TR and the first moves aren't protected probably even on TR. I tried starting directly for a few minutes but with a high shallow tips undercling and nothing else, it will be very challenging to get both feet established to make the first reach.

By joe morgan
From: riverside, ca
Nov 30, 2009

update to the starting breakage:
there is a decent crimp for the right hand up near the first bolt. i used a worse undercling/gaston for my left hand. i was able to stand up onto the good feet. throwing for the next hold 4 feet up will be hard. still goes though. just hard.