|Y - North Side
Stem up past the wide crack, traverse left to the alcove, and then straight up to the top. Two cruxes, one at the start, one getting out onto the face at the end of the traverse.
Start on the big block to the right side of the little cave that's just east of Open Book.
Two-hanger anchor. Single rack to BD #2. A BD #4 might work to protect the wide crack at the bottom (blind placement), but something bigger might be better.
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
My favourite local route for training folks. Good trad lessons, lots of drag to emphesize sling length, diversity of crack width for practicing placement, solid anchors to back-up a new leader on belay. Atalaya SAR uses this route to train technical litter raises, stranded climber pick-offs, etc.
Figure out the first move & the rest is cake.