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Beastie Crack 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) 
Hard Start 
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Left Mother 
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Nose, The 
Notch, The 
Open Book 
Original Open Book 
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Boy Scout (aka Broadway) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Jim Porter, 1970
Page Views: 462
Submitted By: Minesh Bacrania on Apr 19, 2009
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Starting up the "less hard start", the first crux.

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Stem up past the wide crack, traverse left to the alcove, and then straight up to the top. Two cruxes, one at the start, one getting out onto the face at the end of the traverse.


Start on the big block to the right side of the little cave that's just east of Open Book.


Two-hanger anchor. Single rack to BD #2. A BD #4 might work to protect the wide crack at the bottom (blind placement), but something bigger might be better.

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By Bezoar
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

My favourite local route for training folks. Good trad lessons, lots of drag to emphesize sling length, diversity of crack width for practicing placement, solid anchors to back-up a new leader on belay. Atalaya SAR uses this route to train technical litter raises, stranded climber pick-offs, etc.

Figure out the first move & the rest is cake.