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BETA PHOTO: Boxtop Traverse
From Corridor Crack anchors, move right under the Boxtop summit block. Fun hand traverse under the summit block, a helmet will keep you from banging your head. Birth canal finishes the second pitch. Access the large ledge to build gear anchor and belay second (minimizes rope drag). 3 bolts to summit pitch and rap chains. Rap back to Boxtop Corridor on 60m rope.
Starts with small gear and finishes with #1 Camalot. Might want #3.5 Camalot or larger in birth canal. 3 bolts and rap chains on 3rd pitch.
May 20, 2014
This thing was absolutely wild, the first pitch is great on its own. The traverse to the birth canal finish is wild!
By Doug Joness
From: logan, ut
Oct 13, 2015
I belayed from inside the birth canal to reduce rope drag and to prevent the rope from pushing my cams further in the crack. Then crawled through the birth canal with my second to the large ledge. We saw three bolts on the right end of the wall and assumed this was the route..easy 5.9 climbing on jugs to the top. Once on top we saw chains close to the birth canal and later checked the book and it seems that is where dave bingham has the route going. Does anyone know if there are bolts on the left end of the large ledge and if this is the original route and if so what the variation on the right side of the ledge is?