Boxed In (aka Stemcicle)
|637 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 65 feet|
|Consensus: ||WI5 M6+ [details]|
|FA: ||Charlie Fowler & Stephan, 1996|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Jan 25, 2010|
E.M. pulling the roof of Stemcicle. The pillar ha...
The Stemcicle follows the left-facing corner, just left of the Spiral Staircase ice. Stick clip the first of 2 bolts or bring along a 0.5-.75 cam and stem off ice to reach high to place it under the lower roof. Work up on ultra-thin crack placements to the upper roof and stem. If the free-hanger is fat enough, reach out and stab it from behind. Use all the ab strength and commit to the ice. Follow the candled ice up past a mini ledge (rest) and up into the saplings above. This route has an old, broken knifeblade indicating an earlier ascent? If the dagger does not drop down, one can turn the roof to the right via a strenuous reach to the ice on the edge of the Staircase.
This is just left of the infamous Spiral Staircase.
2 bolts, a few shorter screws, and a 0.5-.75 cam.
Following the line to the trees.
Popping out on the outside of the corner. It helps...
The holds are there... just look for them!
|Comments on Boxed In (aka Stemcicle)
|By jack roberts|
Mar 19, 2010
This route was first climbed in 1996 by Charlie Fowler and his partner, named Stephan. Instead of the two bolts that have just recently been placed three pitons were fixed (later two) and left in place.
The original name given by Charlie, which I feel should still be honored, is "BOXED IN".
|By Rob Griz|
Mar 20, 2010
Boxed In or Thinking Outside of the Box...however you look at it, it has become a route worth jumping on. Thanks to Jack for digging into the archives and finding the FA info on this excellent line. If you get a chance to climb it, you will enjoy passing a single piece of the original route history, Charlie's broken KB, up on the thin corner. Just did this route the other night, sooooo good! Thanks again, Jack!
From: Vail, CO
Mar 3, 2012
Super fun route! I loved the lower moves following the seam into the corner. Once there, the feet are there but thin, just find them. The crack has good tools. Finding your exit onto the ice is cool, good when the ice is low and you can stem. A couple powerful moves get you on the ice.