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Sharkstooth
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Boxcars and Airplanes S 

Boxcars and Airplanes 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 1990 by Bob Archbold and Dave Green
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Sharkstooth is the rock formation that is centered...
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Description 

This is a great little sport route to a neat summit. A very good climb to teach people on - its nice to be on a summit rather than lowering off chains on a cliff.

Climb up jugs and a steep crack. When that peters out, step right and climb the right arete of the spire to the top.

This used to have two bolts and possibilities for stopper placements down low(though it was casual to lead just with the two bolts). Several new bolts have appeared, with the lowest one being pointless - it can be clipped while standing on the ground.


Protection 

quickdraws, maybe a few stoppers to protect the start



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fun little climb
fun little climb
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By Bob Archbold
Aug 7, 2002

New bolts were placed in the original location of the original bolts. The pointless first one was to protect a skitish person putting in the stopper placment so they would not fall over and fall out of balance and injure themselves. And by the way I did the first ascent on lead.

By Bob Archbold
Aug 15, 2002

This route was first climbed from the ground up in 1990 by Bob Archbold and Dave Green

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 22, 2002

Cool little route. Great for a warmup in the morning or cool down after a day of climbing.

By Kai Segrud
Dec 25, 2005

Gear Alert

This climb is fun but that first bolt is useless. I would not do this climb unless you have a piece between the first and second bolt. A #11 BD stopper fits well and is pretty easy to put in. If you don't put in anything and for whatever reason you fall before you get to that second bolt, plan on hitting the ground.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A #0.4 BD cam fits perfectly in the crack to protect the climbing between the low first bolt and the high second bolt. Fun climb to a small pointy summit -- just wish it were taller.