|Original:||YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]|
|FA:||Ryan Palo Apr 09|
|Submitted By:||Ryan Palo on Oct 25, 2006|
|Comments on Boxcar||Add Comment|
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By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Jan 29, 2009
|A substantial amount of rock was removed from the lip of this route. The rock in question was beyond reinforcement. I have rerouted the line to the left exiting through the pod. I have completed all of the moves through this "new" section and now feel that the route is a bit easier(~13c). This route is still an open project. However, it needs a bit more work to preparing for a free attempt. There is a key hold just before the pod which absolutely needs to be glued. There still is not an anchor. I will do both of these things in the spring. If you are feeling motivated I can provide you the material to get the job done.|
By Jesse Firestone
Oct 7, 2015
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
This is a bad ass route. Tons of uninterrupted steep climbing, multiple cruxes of different styles, and some of the coolest holds in the cave.
My opinion of the spraydown: V6 opening boulder leads to a few rest options. Then you have a 5.11ish jug haul through the roof, a learned drop kneebar rest, and then directly into an awkward clip and a V6 compression crux at the lip. Another difficult clip leads to some decent holds, then a long reach to a rest stance. From this rest you launch directly into the redpoint crux: a 3 move V5 lockoff problem on wide pinches and slopers. After that you get another jug, but the wall is steep and the pump almost terminal. It might still be possible to fall on the last bolt of sequential 5.11 climbing. Overall I found this a more difficult redpoint than TN, mostly due to the variety of climbing and length (around 52 hand moves for me.)
Some people think this route is dangerous. Clipping and climbing past the third and fourth bolt can be intimidating, but I think it's safe with an attentive belayer. For working the moves, bring a shorter draw and clip in direct to the bolt to find and brush the holds - the chain hangs too low for good reconnaissance. On redpoint I recommend pulling the slack out of the system after clipping these two bolts to keep wayward limbs from swinging behind the rope during the opening boulder problem.
With a good size stick clip it's possible to jumar up to the lip and climb the headwall starting with the crux, which is probably around 12c.
Sorry for the spray, but this thing is sweet and should get more traffic.