Probably the most popular location in Maple Canyon, the Box Canyon area is located in a very narrow canyon whose mouth is located just north of the road (on the right side when driving upcanyon). Because of its narrowness and its north-south direction Box Canyon is cool and shady almost all day.
There are a handful of moderate routes here (particularly at EFS Wall) but the majority of the dozens of bolted routes are 5.12 or harder.
Note that Box Canyon is privately owned and as such access is at the pleasure of the landowners. Do your part to preserve access and be a good citizen: no dogs, be considerate of others (especially hikers), and definitely leave Box Canyon and head for the campground toilets when nature beckons.
Drive .8 miles from the mouth of Maple Canyon where the paved road turns to dirt road and park at one of several pullouts. The canyon mouth is dark and obvious from the road.
Clip two easy bolts and then climb pinches, sidepulls, and pockets to a series of chalked holds below the 5th bolt. Throw up and right to a horn right below the 5th bolt and then continue on decent stuff to the 6th bolt. The draw hangs down below onto this horn which is a bit annoying. There is also a crimp you can hit left of the horn. If you move right after the next bolt and clip the chains of Downloader it is 5.11c. You probably want a long draw on the 6th bolt if you move right. And i...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Good point. The (ostensibly climber-friendly) landowners at Roadside Crag at the Red River Gorge claimed that the unapproved addition of fixed hardware was one of the biggest reason for their decision to close the Red's most popular crag. Worth considering.
I'm also concerned about the amount of dog crap that develops in this canyon during the summer. It's all washed out now due to some of the recent heavy rains, but for a while in the middle of the summer, that place was starting to get pretty gross. I think most climbers are pretty good about leaving the canyon to tend to business, but all these little things can lead to a potential closure if we are not careful. The Box is a great place to climb, it would be a shame to lose it.