Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Box Canyon

Select Area...
2nd Arch Wall 
Ammo Dump Wall 
Arch, The 
Cobble Roof 
EFS Wall 
Entrance Wall, The 
Gravity Well, The 
Hole, The 
Impact Zone Wall, The 
Jehovah Wall 
Turbulence Wall 
Zone, The 

Box Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.5551, -111.6752 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,563
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 24, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
very cool cave... i forget the name...

Box Canyon is privately owned. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably the most popular location in Maple Canyon, the Box Canyon area is located in a very narrow canyon whose mouth is located just north of the road (on the right side when driving upcanyon). Because of its narrowness and its north-south direction Box Canyon is cool and shady almost all day.

There are a handful of moderate routes here (particularly at EFS Wall) but the majority of the dozens of bolted routes are 5.12 or harder.

Note that Box Canyon is privately owned and as such access is at the pleasure of the landowners. Do your part to preserve access and be a good citizen: no dogs, be considerate of others (especially hikers), and definitely leave Box Canyon and head for the campground toilets when nature beckons.

Getting There 

Drive .8 miles from the mouth of Maple Canyon where the paved road turns to dirt road and park at one of several pullouts. The canyon mouth is dark and obvious from the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

58 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',11],['5.12',31],['5.13',12],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Box Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Box Canyon:
Half As Cool As You   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   EFS Wall
Devil's Plaything   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Ammo Dump Wall
Downloader   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ammo Dump Wall
Maple Pickles   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ammo Dump Wall
Pasties and a G-String   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Impact Zone Wall
Watermelon Sugar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ammo Dump Wall
Point blank   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Ammo Dump Wall
Brown Hole   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   EFS Wall
In the Meantime   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Ammo Dump Wall
Towing Jehovah   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Jehovah Wall
Cobble in the Sky   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Arch
Bolts Not Bitches   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Impact Zone Wall
Midwife Crisis   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   Jehovah Wall
Freaking Jesus   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 90'   Jehovah Wall
Deceptacon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Jehovah Wall
Jesus Freak   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Jehovah Wall
Shoot Em' Up   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Ammo Dump Wall
Loser   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 70'   Cobble Roof
Sluggo   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Ammo Dump Wall
Kiss The Cobble   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Cobble Roof
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Box Canyon

Featured Route For Box Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Stan on the Classic Watermelon Sugar

Watermelon Sugar 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : Ammo Dump Wall
Clip two easy bolts and then climb pinches, sidepulls, and pockets to a series of chalked holds below the 5th bolt. Throw up and right to a horn right below the 5th bolt and then continue on decent stuff to the 6th bolt. The draw hangs down below onto this horn which is a bit annoying. There is also a crimp you can hit left of the horn. If you move right after the next bolt and clip the chains of Downloader it is 5.11c. You probably want a long draw on the 6th bolt if you move right. And i...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Box Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: keith investigating
keith investigating
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back down the canyon
looking back down the canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Entrance to Box Canyon, Maple Canyon, Utah
Entrance to Box Canyon, Maple Canyon, Utah

Comments on Box Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian in SLC
Feb 15, 2011
I've recently seen a fairly large number of fixed draws in the Box. Not sure, given the status as private land, how cool this is as its a visual impact for sure.

Does anyone know if the land owner is ok with fixed draws? If not, maybe they should be removed?

Hate to see access in this neat area gone.
By Corona
Sep 1, 2011
Good point. The (ostensibly climber-friendly) landowners at Roadside Crag at the Red River Gorge claimed that the unapproved addition of fixed hardware was one of the biggest reason for their decision to close the Red's most popular crag. Worth considering.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2011
I'm also concerned about the amount of dog crap that develops in this canyon during the summer. It's all washed out now due to some of the recent heavy rains, but for a while in the middle of the summer, that place was starting to get pretty gross. I think most climbers are pretty good about leaving the canyon to tend to business, but all these little things can lead to a potential closure if we are not careful. The Box is a great place to climb, it would be a shame to lose it.
By Leify Guy
Oct 13, 2014
I took some pictures of a couple with their dog from Oregon during this summer in Box Canyon and forgot to get an email, if this was you shoot me your email so I can send you your pictures
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jun 8, 2015
Maple Canyon Alert! The land at the mouth of Maple Canyon as well as along the road before the Forest Service sign is private property. The landowners have asked that if you want to park or stay the night on their property that you give a donation of $8/night and $3/day. There are donation boxes. You can also call to reserve a spot on the private property at 435.851.1486. Please respect this private property and use the restrooms in the upper canyon for now. Note that car camping in day use parking spots is NOT allowed in the upper canyon on the Forest Service property.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!