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Bowman Valley

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B - Word 
Bowman Bouldering 
Boy Scout Wall 
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Cove, The 
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Windy Point 

Bowman Valley  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,500'
Location: 39.4443, -120.656 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,172
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurt Swanson on Jan 13, 2012
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View looking east from the top of the southern dam...

Description 

Bowman Valley (sometimes called Bowman Lake) is a series of secluded crags beneath the Bowman Lake Dam where a number of easy to difficult sport climbs have been developed in recent years, with great deal of sport climbing development opportunity here. The rock is heavily textured granite, with excellent friction, and ranges from slab to overhanging roofs with permadraws.

Free camping can be had here, and the only traffic the road gets is National Forest staff, ATV enthusiasts, and climbers. There is excellent swimming in the lake by climbing above Larry Land onto the damn and crossing over the spillway.

Getting There 

The approach varies depending upon the vehicle used to enter on the National Forest, but a rental car can usually make it within a few miles of the approach trailheads. A good SUV can take you all the way. Take Bowman Lake Road off of Highway 20, usually approached via Interstate 80. Once you turn off of Interstate 80 and head down highway 20 (toward Nevada city) you go 3.5 miles and you will turn right onto Bowman lake road. Continue on Bowman Lake road for 13 1/2 miles and you will come to a bridge below Bowman Lake dam. This bridge will be the landmark for the areas in Bowman Valley. The road starts out paved but the last 5 miles are gravel and a little rough in spots. See the GPS location for the precise location of the area to park in.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

60 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',15],['5.11',20],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bowman Valley:
Circus Tricks   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Fun House
Candy Land   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Candy Land
unknown (minimally bolted 5.8+?)   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Fun House
Rock n Rolla   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Candy Land
Candy Man   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Candy Land
Pork Chop   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Boy Scout Wall
Tecate (tr)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 80'   Boy Scout Wall
Sugar Rush   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Candy Land
Cheers and Jeers (Route 6)   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   Rediscovery Domes
unknown 5.10   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Fun House
Flying the Coop   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Boy Scout Wall
Shangri-La (Route 4)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Rediscovery Domes
Gum Drop Arete   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 60'   The Gum Drop
Lonestar   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     TR, 50'   Boy Scout Wall
Hello Larry   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Larry Land
Hot Rod   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   Larry Land
Mississippi Mud   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Boy Scout Wall
Last Boy Scout   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Boy Scout Wall
Super Natural   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Larry Land
Larry Land   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   Larry Land
Browse More Classics in Bowman Valley

Featured Route For Bowman Valley
Mike Carville exiting the roof on Porn Star .12b. ...

Porn Star 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Larry Land
Climb Super Natural .11c past anchors and then continue through giant blocky roof with fixed draws....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Bowman Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Carville on the Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, B...
Mike Carville on the Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, B...
Bowman Lake, CA. Overview map.
BETA PHOTO: Bowman Lake, CA. Overview map.
Sanam on Rock n Rolla .9. Candy Land, Bowman Valle...
Sanam on Rock n Rolla .9. Candy Land, Bowman Valle...
Bowman Valley from Windy Point.
Bowman Valley from Windy Point.
Gabe Metzger on Super Natural .11c. Larry Land, Bo...
Gabe Metzger on Super Natural .11c. Larry Land, Bo...
spring storm coming in over bowman valley, ca
spring storm coming in over bowman valley, ca
FA- Nick Muehlhausen Riding around and lichen it- ...
FA- Nick Muehlhausen Riding around and lichen it- ...
max jones high on rediscovery dome, bowman valley,...
max jones high on rediscovery dome, bowman valley,...
Hansi Standtheiner on the third ascent of Thrillbi...
Hansi Standtheiner on the third ascent of Thrillbi...
Larry Land. Bowman Lake, CA.
Larry Land. Bowman Lake, CA.
the cove, bowman valley, ca
the cove, bowman valley, ca
Josh Horniak on the first ascent of Larry Land .11...
Josh Horniak on the first ascent of Larry Land .11...
Josh on Sub Text .12a.
Josh on Sub Text .12a.
Simeon and Mike on Predator 11d. The Cove. Bowman ...
Simeon and Mike on Predator 11d. The Cove. Bowman ...
flying snakes 11a. the cove, bowman valley, ca.
flying snakes 11a. the cove, bowman valley, ca.
derrick lindsay on shangri-la 5.10-, rediscovery d...
derrick lindsay on shangri-la 5.10-, rediscovery d...
Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
the cove, bowman valley, ca
the cove, bowman valley, ca

Comments on Bowman Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By jesselyb
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Jan 13, 2012
Anyone have specific route info? I hear there's supposed to be a guidebook coming out with Bowman in it, but anybody want to help a guy out in the mean time?
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 13, 2012
Kurt, the wall you called "Steve's Slab Crag" is actually called 'The Funhouse."

...and as far as more info, there will be a new guidebook in the near future.
By Kurt Swanson
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jan 14, 2012
some info about routes at Larry Land can be gleaned here:

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

Having been there myself, I have just two pieces of beta to offer: easy stuff, go to the funhouse, hard stuff go to Larry Land.
By mike carville
Feb 16, 2013
Bowman Valley off I-80/Hwy 20 past the Emeralds (13 miles). Some of the best moderate sport cragging in the Tahoe area. So far about 70 routes - mostly 5.8 - 5.12. Free camping, excellent swimming. Larry Land lies below the cement dam/Bowman Lake, Candy Land and the Cove across the flume base of the descent road (Windy Point). Plus Scott Land, Ire Land, B-Word. All offer excellent climbing of all grades. Cheers.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2013
Thanks for posting this area up!
By Brennen T
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Jul 4, 2013
so many effing bugs here!! but the amazing climbing makes up for it, well worth the trip out!!
By mike carville
Sep 1, 2014
Best time to climb here is spring and fall. Best places to camp are around the Cove/Candy Land and just past washout on left near B Word.
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