Bowline
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Was at a yacht club this past weekend(very nice, east end LI) and they had a display of knots. Have to say I knew everyone except this one. Well I made it my obsession to learn it without looking it up. Of course they had an end showing which made it seem 'not on a bite'. Once I finally figured it out, like a freakin puzzle!!! I looked it up. Have to say once I knew it was a bowline it was obvious. |
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I have never used it for climbing, though I could see some potential applications for it. |
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The bowline on a bight is used occasionally for glacier travel or when you need to tie in to the middle of the rope. |
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I've seen it used in anchor systems as it creates two equalizable "bunny ears" |
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Ill use a retraced bowline on a bite if im climbing something I plan on whipping on.... much easier to untie after... especially with pumped hands |
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The retraced bowline on a bight is a standard tie-in knot in Europe and has been pronounced the best tie-in knot by the DAV. |
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There you go! I knew if posted here I'd get clarification. Seems more confusing than a follow through 8 for a tie in though. |
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KEITH, It certainly is. It is less commonly used as a tie in know in part because it is more difficult to 'quick glance' check that it is tied correctly. It is also well known. There are many forums dedicated to people asking if this knot is even 'safe' to climb on..... IT IS. (a retraced bowline) |
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I was asked to tie a bowline on a bite as part of my Eagle Scout board of review (many years ago). I didn't know it so I tied a regular bowline and then bit it with my teeth. I passed...just barely. |
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Craig Quincy wrote:I was asked to tie a bowline on a bite as part of my Eagle Scout board of review (many years ago). I didn't know it so I tied a regular bowline and then bit it with my teeth. I passed...just barely.Ha, I would've failed. I was terrible at knots in scouting but since climbing supplies an application, I've gotten much better. I knew my lashes pretty well! |
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I've used a bowline on a bite a few times to make a harness out of the rope as described by another MP user. |
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I've been using a bowline with a bite for the last 10 years after climbing more sport than trad. The knot is much easier to untie after repeated falls and is as safe as the classic figure eight. |
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Dan Allard wrote:I've seen it used in anchor systems as it creates two equalizable "bunny ears" For example: climbinglife.com/instructio…Eli is the man. |
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It's useful for anchoring with the rope at a 2 point anchor, and for improvising a harness for rescue at any point along the rope. In John Long and Bob Gaines' second anchors book, "More Climbing Anchors" they devote a good chunk to this knot / technique for anchoring, dubbing it "The Atomic Clip". As a rescue harness, it can be used like a Bosun's Chair - One loop around the torso, the other under the thighs, Or you can use the two loops one for each leg and secure the torso separately. |
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Pretty standard tie-in knot over here and a good knot for making a loop in the end of the rope. |
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It's GREAT for TR rope solo on a solid two-point anchor. |
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I used this knot tonight to fix a line to the bow ring of my $55,000 bass boat so I could haul it close and get it on the bunks of the trailer in a tricky loading situation. It's quick, unites easily and you can tie it without seeing the knot forming. |
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I use this knot routinely for attaching static cord to a tree for (half of) a top-rope anchor. I assume that two bights harm the tree less than one, by reducing the pressure on the bark. |
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Thomas Beck wrote:I used this knot tonight to fix a line to the bow ring of my $55,000 bass boat ...a new twist on strength ratings. instead of being rated to, say, 5 kN, this knot is rated to 55 k$ |
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Might be some confusion over the knot standard bowline on the end of the rope: (or maybe I'm confused) |
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bowline on a bight isn't really good for tying onto large objects because you have to pass the loop around the entire object. With the bowline on a bight you'd have the loop then you'd have to clip onto it after it's tied. A regular bowline you can tie around something. |