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Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Mullin and Charles Walters
Page Views: 1,165
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Halfling Beta: First, undercling, with the right h...

Description 

Starts just left of a blocky, offwidth corner. Bouldery start to a thin face move off a sidepull, then easier climbing leads to a bulge that is surmounted via steep, but positive, liebacking.

Protection 

Bolts to chains.


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By Kreighton Bieger
Jan 1, 2001

For clarity: This route and Karma Mechanic are located in a shaded level alcove just off the trail on your right. Karma Mechanic starts up just behind a tree and is about 8 left of this route.
By tobias
From: CO
Dec 29, 2002

... not shaded by late morning. Good winter climbing. Both this and Karma Mechanic are quality 5.10 routes
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The name of the route is "Bourgeois Belay Dogs". The crux at the second bolt can be done with an undercling and a reach to a shallow finger pocket up right of the bolt or by sliding left, moving up and then back right.

The bulging, layback crux at the last bolt is pumpy and continuous, with little for the feet. Harder than Suburbia or Armistice, so I'm calling it a 10c.
By Anonymous Coward
May 13, 2004

Olson... everytime I read a comment of yours on this site you're inflating a grade. Could you stop? Good beta on the climbs though. Stick to your guns and keep that up. Not meaning to be a jerk, per guidelines, just looking to curb the virulent inflation in the Front Range decimal system. Otherwise, we're all out of luck when we go to places with real, solid to stout grades. Shelf already has the softest grades in the West, (Red Rocks a close second). Let's not make it any worse.
By Greaser
May 14, 2004

I think that Shelf is fair in its ratings. Some are soft and some are stout for the rating. Do the routes around Hot Beach (on Cactus Cliff) to see what I mean or go do Rain in the Bank or The Example (some think it's soft). For me, Shelf is every bit as hard or harder than Rifle; for the rating. Even Rifle has a few routes that are soft.

WHO CARES! Just climb and enjoy it, Otherwise you are there for the wrong reasons!
By ac
May 14, 2004

Anonymous Coward from 206.173.160.226 is user "Sirius".....
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 22, 2005

The brand new [Shelf] guide book calls this route 10c and Karma Mechanic 10b. I did both routes yesterday and agree with the grades. Great routes!
By Chamo Breslin
Nov 1, 2005

I think the ac's right: no need to inflate here. Keep it at an honest .10b.

Great route, cheers to the FA.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Jan 2, 2014

Very fun route but definitely a bit harder start for 10b. Comparing it to many others, I found that move off the crimp and sidepull just above the first bolt a bit harder than its grade. In any case, still fun!