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> 1. Black Wall - Left
Bourbon Street
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 39 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Gary Allen, Malcolm Jolly 1977 |
Page Views: | 5,156 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Mulligan on Dec 7, 2011 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Pitch 1 and 2: Climb the chimney like feature and cracks to left of the Rat's Tooth. I believe the first pitch was 5.6 or 5.7 and the second pitch had some 5.8 like moves ending on a nice ledge on the left side of the large gulley. In an older guidebook they called these two pitches "Inner Recess" (I actually prefer to climb the 5.10 pitch of Rat's tooth, and the beginning of the 2nd pitch of Touch and go to get to the anchor)
Pitch 3 (The Money Pitch): From the ledge climb straight up the chimney and head right over a couple of bulges and a roof to reach the main corner. Climb up the corner between two roofs and around to the right of the 2nd roof at the top of the corner ending at Lizard Ledge.
Pitch 3 (The Money Pitch): From the ledge climb straight up the chimney and head right over a couple of bulges and a roof to reach the main corner. Climb up the corner between two roofs and around to the right of the 2nd roof at the top of the corner ending at Lizard Ledge.
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