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Snakes Head / S Wall
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Bourbon Street 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Greg Schooley 1978
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006

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Description 

The first bolted route at Quartz. You might rope up for the climb to the ledge being 5.6/7. Start at the two-bolt belay and then work up past a couple of bolts and into a stance below a crack. Then climb up past the chimney and to another bolt to easy climbing above.

Location 

Start from the grassy ledge 20 feet off the deck on the right side of the wall.

Protection 

Long slings for the bolts, the crack will take some small stuff if you really want it. Stuff a big 3-4's cam in the belay stance in the dish. Standard rack will suffice for the rest.


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By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jan 31, 2007

Crux is getting off the ledge. the move straight up from the anchor is very boulder problem-ish. I've seen many people get stuck on it. One move and your on the street though.
By C. Archibald
Nov 20, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

The start of this route is certainly not 5.8 anymore. From what I've been told, the soil on the ledge has eroded, making it much more difficult to reach the jugs. I started the route about 5 - 10 feet right of the anchors, and then had to make a scary unprotected traverse into the first bolt risking a big factor 2 onto the anchor. The party in front of us (with climbers that normally onsight 5.10 trad climbs) had to put a sling on the anchor and step in it just to get off the ground.

I'm fine calling it 5.8 just to look tough and respect history, but in all honesty, the start is 5.10 R.

Oh yeah ... Pitch 2 has one gear placement and no bolts. The climbing is easier, but it's still R rated.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Nov 30, 2015

Arch... I'll tell ya, I kind of agree. Not sure about the erosion, but I do know last time I was on it, I used your start right traverse left to the 1st bolt. Before you ask to up this rating to a 10, might I suggest you put in a TR lap of something classic like Amazon Woman at 10a/b. Still that direct start might check in around the 10's, I didn't fool with it enough to say for sure.
By C. Archibald
Nov 30, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I've TRed Amazon Woman. Haven't let it yet. I think the start of Bourbon is harder than any move on Amazon! I've led El Tesoro and the start of Bourbon is definitely harder than any move on that route!
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Dec 7, 2015

So your comfortable at the grade in the area. Nice. I could be wrong, as I theorize, that traverse up to the 1st bolt could be how the route went up to start with. Further, key holds on the direct start could have been broken? Ultimately, I don't think this warrants an upgrade. Perhaps an alternate start rating, somewhat like what some consider looking at Crusin' for a Brusin. Good discussion!
By Bernie WIre
From: Los Angeles
Jan 15, 2016

This route was put up by Greg Schooley 1978.
By Herndon
Jan 17, 2016

As noted, the dirt ledge at the beginning of the route has eroded away over the years, making it MUCH harder. The rest of the route is a romp. You can finish the route up the chimney, or climb the face on its right, which is easier than it looks, but has only one spot to put in pro and is exposed. The face option is 5.8 or so, but R rated for sure.
By Greg Schooley
Feb 17, 2016

Wow, did know this site existed. Bernie is right, I did the first ascent of Bourbon Street in 1978. I did a roped solo. Was Just trying out this technique and choose this line.
By J. Pitts
From: Garden City, Ks
Apr 26, 2016

So Greg, are you saying you don't remember if you used the side entrance or the brown glassey nobs on the first ascent? I tried this route in September on a 80 degree day at around 5pm, and I could not beast it over those suckers. I almost stood on the anchors but everything in side said no, I will do it as Greg did it, just kidding. But seriously I did walk away, not wanting to give a new belayer too big of a scare. Later at camp somebody said it was easy and you just "hop right up it" but they said that was a few years ago, so the eroding thing makes sense. The only 5.8 I couldn't climb, and first ego crusher.

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