Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Whiskey Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber 
Archaeopteryx 
Back to Basics 
Bourbon Hangover 
Bourbon Street 
Canadian Club 
Cole Essence 
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The 
First Grader 
Frogland 
Ixtlan 
Kenny Laguna 
Matzoland 
Mazatlan 
Miss Conception 
Misunderstanding, The 
Only the Good Die Young 
Our Father 
Perplexity 
Raindance 
Return To Forever 
Sand Felipe 
Triassic Sands 
Wholesome Fullback 
Unsorted Routes:

Bourbon Street 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 650', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,739
Submitted By: John Wilder on May 29, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: The north side of Whiskey Peak with Bourbon Street...

Description 

Once again, Scary Larry has had his way when it comes to putting up a new route. Recently, Scary Larry, Bill Thiry, and Thomas Ribiere went on a scouting mission up a potential line that moves up the face just right of Frogland. The initial pitches went mostly as planned, but after a bit of a miscommunication, the upper portion of what Larry had in mind was left unclimbed and instead the team moved up to the summit via some easier ground. Although the team had put up a good line and had had a great day, Larry felt that the line he had in mind should still be attempted in the very near future.

After a bit of wrangling, Larry recruited yours truly into the mission of completing the climb as Larry had originally envisioned. So, we headed out to Black Velvet and, almost without incident put up the climb as Larry wanted, and it turned out great.

This route is a solid step up from Frogland, and is, in many ways, a better route overall. This is a good option for experienced parties that find themselves waiting in line for Frogland and enjoy a good adventure.

Head for the base of Frogland and rope up about 25' left of the start in a corner with a good looking finger crack. (This is just past the little step across on the ledge system)

Pitch 1: Head up the corner over a bulge to a ledge with some bushes. From here, step right and continue up another corner to the first belay of Frogland. 5.7, 120'

Pitch 2: The best pitch on the route. Start as for the second pitch of Frogland. Head up the left leaning ramp, but instead of continuing up the corner, climb the beautiful crack on the right hand wall. (There is another crack about 10' to its right that is probably harder to climb and to protect.) About 70' up, this crack ends. Step right to gain the upper part of the other crack and follow this to belay. 5.8+, 120'

Pitch 3: About 185' above this ledge is a prominent buttress protruding from the main face. The next belay is at the base of this. Head straight up through some bushes, and then strike out onto the face above. Head generally straight up, following the pro. 5.6, 185'

Pitch 4: This pitch looks harder than it is. Step up and right from belay, under a small lip protruding from the base of the buttress. Step up again and then step left onto the top of the lip. Follow this flake up and left until it ends. Pass a small bulge and climb the right facing corner above to a series of small ledges. Edit: From here on out, your goal is to stay generally to the left, aiming for the beautiful slabs above and the summit overhangs. 5.7+, 70'

Pitch 5: Just left of belay is a neat, but short, finger crack. Follow this and then step onto a right leaning ramp and follow it until a large horn is reached. From here, head straight up the beautiful face, following the pro, until an arÍte is reached. Step right and follow the ramp up and left toward a weakness in the summit overhangs. Belay on a cozy ledge below an improbable looking corner on the left. Edit: Again, you're aiming somewhat left off belay, going for the very obvious slab above. 5.6, 150'

Pitch 6: Step left to the corner, and head up it on the face just left. Protection is obvious. Follow the corner to a large ledge. 5.7, 35'

Pitch 7: This is best done separate from the previous pitch due to rope drag possibilities. Climb the face just to your right as you arrive at the ledge. Follow this up to the summit. 5.5, 35'

Descent: Same as per Frogland.


Protection 

This route has a good deal of small pro, so bring doubles of everything to about hands size. Also bring a fist sized cam and maybe a 4" cam for the odd slot.



Photos of Bourbon Street Slideshow Add Photo
The final moves of the first pitch.
The final moves of the first pitch.
Another way to climb the 6th pitch (compare to Larry's photo).
Another way to climb the 6th pitch (compare to Lar...
Fett after climbing the "right" crack, ptch 2 Bourbon Street
Fett after climbing the "right" crack, ptch 2 Bour...
Pitch 2 of Bourbon Street; the climber has moved right from the finger crack to its upper continuation.
Pitch 2 of Bourbon Street; the climber h...
Fun face climbing at the end of the third pitch.
Fun face climbing at the end of the third pitch.
Looking down the P2 finger crack of Bourbon Street.  The slanting corner on Frogland's second pitch is the crack beneath the climber.
Looking down the P2 finger crack of Bourbon Street...
Paul Horton leading the right crack on pitch 2.
Paul Horton leading the right crack on pitch 2.
The smile says it all- aesthetic climbing on Bourbon Street's pitch 3.
The smile says it all- aesthetic climbing on Bourb...
Bourbon Street Topo
BETA PHOTO: Bourbon Street Topo
Pitch 4 of Bourbon Street.
Pitch 4 of Bourbon Street.
Approaching the crux on the excellent second pitch.
Approaching the crux on the excellent second pitch...
Looking down on the upper part of Bourbon Street.  The climber on the left is belaying at the top of pitch 5.  Below on the right, two climbers ascend the pitch 5 slab.
Looking down on the upper part of Bourbon Street. ...
Looking down the 5th pitch.
Looking down the 5th pitch.
Pitch 6 of Bourbon Street provides a moderate exit through the summit overhangs.
Pitch 6 of Bourbon Street provides a moderate exit...
Clay on the pitch 2 finger crack of Bourbon Street
Clay on the pitch 2 finger crack of Bourbon Street
Sharon Vinick at the crux overhang on the first pitch of Bourbon Street.
Sharon Vinick at the crux overhang on the first pi...
Climbers on pitch 5, Bourbon St.
Climbers on pitch 5, Bourbon St.
Sharon Vinick enjoying the climbing near the top of the second pitch.   <br /> <br />Three people can been seen down below, waiting for the second pitch of Frogland. <br /> <br />There were five or six parties on Frogland, but no one else did Bourbon Street that day.
Sharon Vinick enjoying the climbing near the top o...
MC following
MC following
Comments on Bourbon Street Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 30, 2013
By Kurtz
5 days ago

CONDITION REPORT 

Beware the varmints at the base of Bourbon St./Frogland! They will shred your pack for any food items. They got three of our packs!.

By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 6, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Four of us climbed the route this weekend. The first pitch was fun. There are two corners left of the start to Frogland and we climbed the corner closest to Frogland. The corner just to the left also looked like fun. There was a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch that I assume was put up a few years ago by the looks of it. That pitch on its own is very worthwhile, even as an alternative start to Frogland. The second pitch was also fun and from there on out, the climb is all trad and commiting. No easy turning back past the first pitch without losing gear. I do not think the route is nearly as good as Frogland and IMO does not deserve three stars (highest quality). I reserve three stars for routes such as Dark Shadows, Nightcrawler, Crimson C, Levitation 29, CITH, and Triassic Sands. This route, although fun and adventurous (plenty of loose rock and fragile holds) does not compare to those.

Thanks for sharing the new route.

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Jun 6, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Well, I'll start by admitting that the whole "star-rating" thing is a little contrived. Several things went into my high opinion of the route. I had been looking in the area for quite some time and it appeared that the attractive "good line" was rather improbable. The corner looked steep, the face looked blank, and the summit overhangs looked insane. On the other hand, I'm sure that the crack on the second pitch has been beckoning climbers for 30 years. When we headed up we found, to our giddy delight, that the highly improbable was highly possible-- and at a quite reasonable standard, too! Moreover, we thought the rock was mostly good; really just one or two spots to keep you honest. Anyway, I loved it, and expect to do it again...

By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 6, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Point taken. I look forward to climbing other routes inspired by your vision. The wandering face climbing on the chocolate rock of pitch 3 was also fun.

By super dave
From: las vegas, nv
Sep 9, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Did the route yesterday 9/8/2005. Fun route with the best pitch #2 as described. Pitch 4 turning the overhang was also cool. One problem would be the loose rock as would be expected with any new route. Wear a helmet and use caution! Any falling rock will wind up on pitch 1 or 2 on Frogland.

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

We had planned to climb Frogland on Sept. 9, but Larry introduced us to this route instead. It was stellar (esp. the first 2 pitches) and it protected well. It's steep for a 5.8 but the holds are all there and the only section that might give a new 5.8 leader trouble is the short finger crack on P2. It offers bomber finger locks but the feet aren't great.

By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Apr 10, 2006

i climbed this today and second the high praise for the first pitch (splitter in red rock!) and the second too.

we had some routefinding 'moments' around the beginning of P5. i never saw anything i would describe as 'a large horn', and the ramp as drawn in the topo made me try to get offroute. if i were to alter the route description, i would write:

P4: etc etc etc.. step up again and then step left onto the top of the lip. follow fragile rotten rock up and left until it ends. pass a small bulge and climb the ramp above and right, stopping to a belay in a short dirty corner with a decent crack. (we belayed a little above this, which works too. pick your stance.)

P5. Head up the corner to the big featured face above (yes, there is pro) trending right at the top until the arÍte is reached. Step right and follow the ramp up and left toward a weakness in the summit overhangs. Belay on a cozy ledge below a clean varnished corner on the left.

btw- im generally pretty conservative with protection, and wouldn't bring anything larger than #3 if i do it again.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Excellent, well-protected climbing on the first two pitches, and adventurous climbing on the upper pitches, with some loose rock, friable holds, moderate runouts, and route-finding decisions.

The first pitch is very sustained at the 5.7 level. The initial cracks eat pro in the green Camalot (#0.75) size; bring several of these. The last part of the first pitch is a hand-and-fist crack around a roof; save a #2 and #3 Camalot for this section.

The second pitch has two stellar cracks, with the 5.8 crux being a finger crack halfway up. Yellow, gray, and green Aliens worked well here. There is a rap anchor at the top of the second pitch. It seems as if many people just do the first two pitches and rappel; there's lots of chalk on these pitches and almost none on the upper pitches.

The route changes character starting with the third pitch. No more chalk to guide the way; you're on your own for finding the route. It's interesting climbing these upper pitches: you're having a bit of an adventure on relatively untrodden ground, yet you can easily hear the conversations from the conga line on Frogland just a hundred feet to the left.

After climbing past some bushes and easy rock, there is a short, steep 5.6 headwall with PG pro. A short distance above is a similar headwall. Cams in pockets and horizontal cracks worked for pro. Climb up a chocolate-colored face with PG pro to a belay at a small stance at the base of the prominent buttress.

The fourth pitch starts with a fun step left onto the lip of the little roof (5.7). I didn't find the left-angling ramp above the roof to be particularly fragile or rotten. After turning a bulge, I continued up a right-facing ramp, climbed a finger crack in lichenous corner, and belayed on a ledge at its top.

The fifth pitch starts up a face, then heads up right-angling ramp with a prominent chicken head near its end (sling it for pro). From here, the route goes up the face, angling right to the arÍte. Climb up just left of the arÍte all the way to its top; don't go around a corner to the right halfway up. The climbing isn't difficult (5.6), but the rock is a little crispy and the PG pro is small cams in horizontal cracks. At the top of the arÍte, step right and climb a left-angling ramp to its top. I belayed at a small ledge under an overhanging left-angling crack. A larger, more spacious ledge is just to the left, which may be a better spot to belay.

The sixth pitch starts with a traverse left to a dark, varnished left-facing corner. Pro is a bit runout up this corner. There's a 5.7 bulge at the top of the corner that is tricky to protect. I finally got a gray Alien in a shallow horizontal crack, and almost pulled off a dinner-plate-sized loose rock on the ledge above the bulge. An easy lichen-covered corner leads to a big ledge just right of the final gully on Frogland. This pitch was about 60' long the way we did it.

The final easy pitch takes you to the summit not far from the top of Frogland.

All-in-all, a worthwhile route if you've done Frogland, or if the line on Frogland is too long and you're up for an adventurous outing. The first two pitches are four star, the last five are two star, so I'll give the route three stars overall.

Pro: set of wired nuts, #0.5 to #2.5 Tricams, double set of cams from small Aliens through #3 Camalot.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 9, 2006

bah! a rap station on top of two??? chop it, i say! chop it!

just kidding--almost.

the first two pitches are quite good, but this routes character comes more from the adventure above, i think. my favorite moment of the first ascent was being on the beautiful 5.4 slab below the summit overhangs and looking left and just enjoying the moment of perfect clarity amidst a sea of perfect sandstone slab....it was a great moment and i think of it often. you dont get moments like that often, and this route is one that provides it!

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Oct 10, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Don't worry about chopping, John-- Ron assures me that it is just a sling and carabiner. Probably be gone on the next ascent anyway!

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007

I thought this route was nearly as good as Frogland and somewhat different in character with more face climbing. The description here, augmented by Ron Olsen's extensive comment, were perfect for getting up the route. I didn't find the topo as useful. We didn't find any sections to be seriously runout, and only a few sections even mildly runout. A few comments on pitches:

P1: This is the most crack oriented pitch and hand jamming technique is almost required at the top.

P2: Awesome! The crux section swallows red aliens. There is still a long length of perlon and a biner around a huge flake at the top of this pitch.

P3: The lower part of this pitch is 5.2 if you follow the easiest (wandering) line until you are about 40' below the belay. Here you have to make a committing move up a steep headwall with no pro in sight above you. There is gear shortly, however. This is one of the 5.6PG headwalls that Ron mentions, I think I managed to wander around those lower down.

P4: The step left onto the lip/flake is weird, we both opted for a less elegant, grunting technique cranking up the flake itself. Do not belay too high at the top of this pitch or it will get you in trouble for the next one.

P5: This pitch I thought the most spectacular of the route and it appears unlikely to go so easily viewed from the ground. There is currently a small fixed cam (purple sling) in the crack at the start, making it easy to know you are in the right spot. After the horn, I climbed up and slightly left and found a nice hairline crack that shot straight up for 80', offering pro every 10' or so. When this crack ends and a difficult unprotected bulge appears above, trend right to the arete, then up another 60' to the belay ledges. Be careful not to knock off any loose rocks at this belay (we belayed at the larger ledge mentioned by Ron, scenic spot!).

P6: The crack at the start of this pitch offers little in the way of pro. There is a good placement for a orange alien, but that's about it as we didn't have a gray alien. This is mildly runout, but not hard. Alternatively, climb the face left of the crack as shown in Larry's photo (also a bit runout).

P7: This could probably be combined with P6, but it would be tricky to avoid rope drag.

I agree with Ron, nothing larger than a #3 Camalot is needed ... 3.5 stars.

By brucelacroix
From: Hillsboro, OR
May 12, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I climbed this route today 5-12-07, and loved it. Great climbing, great pro, and good belay ledges. I give it the highest rating. Good one Larry.I'd rather do this route again than Frogland. Beware of rope drag on the fourth pitch.

By Carrie B.
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 17, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Definitely fun adventure, my boyfriend & I climbed route this last Sunday, would do it again too!

Only thing I would change is to move belay at top of pitch#2 up to second ledge of bushes. Pitch#3 traverses so much that if you don't have to climb through the first ledge of bushes, it would make it a lot easier to not have rope drag above!

By Karsten Delap
From: North Carolina
Apr 1, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Belayed at the second ledge and had no problem with rope drag. Great beta Carrie! First 2 pitches were 5 stars, the rest detracts. Great climb if Frogland is busy!

By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Apr 10, 2009

Someone might take a pruning saw and clear a hole through the brush at the start of the third pitch. Or chew through it if the tool use is offensive. None of us had our dentures in, or we would have done the job.
Since the fourth pitch is quite short, you'll find a better belay ledge to end pitch #3 below the short dark varnished wall leading to the base of the aforementioned buttress.
We also did the right-hand crack of pitch #2, which had one stopper at the start of the pod below the intersection of the two cracks. It had a fair bit of fragile rock and none of us freed it, although we climbed to perhaps an easy 5.10 level before wimping out. Several edges broke, and some more are candidates. The section below where the two cracks join was the crux. Pro was tricky.
This is a really good route. The two bolts at the end of pitch #1 have pro bolts above, so it seems like it's a variation of pitch #2 of Frogland. The climbing over there looked very good as a mixed pitch of trad pro and several bolts. It would intersect Frogland and looked like fun.

By Larry Graham
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2009

Climbed this yesterday, April 19, 2009. I would agree that it is a superb alternate to Frogland. I erred on the first pitch and continued straight up about 25 ft above and left of the first belay for Frogland. This turned out serendipitously as I was able to avoid the the 20-25 ft common section of the two routes by making an easy traverse out right to the start of the great crack that marks the point at which you leave Frogland. Thus no party was inconvenienced by the crowds. For those reading these commentaries you might consider making the same "mistake". Not only that but en route to the "incorrect belay" I scavenged a biner with an entire set of wired nuts that had obviously fallen from an upper pitch of Frogland and lodged in a tree!

I thought that Ron Olsen's first paragraph was a perfect description of the route. The upper pitches while quite easy do require good route finding skills and often some creative protection challenges. So the adventure quotient was high at all times. Three of four stars.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 6, 2009

I was on Frogland today and noticed that it would be fairly easy to work back over to the top of the 2nd (or 3rd, depending on how you did it) pitch of Frogland from the top of the second pitch of Bourbon Street. A short, maybe 25', traverse on fairly easy looking rock would deposit you about 100' below the crux pitch. From the top of 2, go up and over the bush on the left, and look for the broken section of rock to guide you over to the ledge on Frogland.

We didnt do this, but it looked very plausible and may be a fun option to pass parties if you're very fast and the start is clogged up!

By AmyR
Oct 20, 2009

The first two pitches were fantastic! We got off route on P4. After pulling the lip, it should be described as a left leaning flake rather than a left leaning ramp, since it was much steeper than what I'd call a ramp. So, if you happen to follow the ramps to the right to a chimney, you can still get back on route. Our P5 was up a crack and some blocks to a small ledge at the base of a left-leaning finger crack. P6 followed the crack right to a large ledge at the base of the roof and then rejoin the original route description of the 5.7 face to get above/around the roof. I wouldn't exactly recommend our route, but it is possible to still pull it off. And our P6 was still quite nice.

By Simon Perkins
Oct 20, 2009

Just to add to Amy's comment above, our route finding problems (like others reported here) began shortly after the start of P4. The belay stance at the beginning of that pitch is a tiny ledge directly underneath a large hanging buttress. After heading up the face to the right of here about 15' and surmounting the lip at the base of the buttress, the original route description then starts talking about ramps, faces and arretes that we didn't recognize. So, when we should have been climbing towards the left, up the side of the buttress, we instead ended up climbing to the right, fairly quickly reaching an obvious low angle chimney, followed by a broad ledge where we set up a belay. From there the climb led over increasingly rotten and lichenous rock towards an ominous looking "trihedral" roof in the distance. I mention all this so that if you find yourself in the same position you'll know where you are! Fortunately the correct route can be regained easily. Simply trend left until you find yourself on a ledge with loose rock at the base of a lichenous left-leaning finger crack in a right-facing corner. Head up here to the left, following the crack and after 40' or so you'll find yourself at the belay stance at the top of P5, just below the very recognizable curving "improbable corner" shown in the pictures of P6 above. Of course doing it this way we missed out on what is apparently one of the better pitches on the route...

By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Mar 21, 2010

John-Larry, Awesome route! I like that it has a little bit of everything.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2010

I updated the description to reflect the comments on the route after the fourth pitch.

Its admittedly kind of wandering up there and its hard to describe exactly what route to take. If someone has a good photo of Whiskey peak showing frogland, send it to me and i'll put an overlay of the route on it for folks.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Apr 15, 2010

I onsight soloed the first pitch crack several years ago, having seen a bolted rap anchor at the top. My guess is that I wasn't the first person to notice the pitch and climb it. Maybe FRA would be more accurate? As far as the other pitches, Nick Nordblom covered a lot of territory in that area several decades ago, it would seem logical to climb some of the Frogland variations/off-route diversions in the process. This route sounds like it might be an interesting variation but I'm glad I climbed Frogland for the fifth time today-a classic's a classic, a variation's a variation.

By Jeff Witt
Mar 14, 2012

Good route - worth the effort is Frogland is jammed up. The second pitch is definitely the crux - beautiful, sustained finger crack - 5.8+ and seems harder that anything Frogland will throw at you. The upper pitches wander a little, but just aim for the wild overhanging corner, which is a bit easier then it looks.

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Apr 9, 2012

On P1, do you step right after the first bulge at the first small bushy ledge? Above this first ledge, there is a steep hand-to-fingers crack in the face leading to a larger, more imposing overhang with a fist crack running through it(none of which looks 5.7 but maybe there's hidden holds). I haven't seen that larger roof mentioned or pictured in the feedback here so I'm wondering that whole section above the first small ledge is another route altogether? Looks like there is a rap station just above that roof.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 27, 2013

Returned to this climb today quite a few years after I first did it with Larry, and I still think that this route is pretty darn awesome. The second pitch has significantly changed character since the first ascent- it was pretty crispy on the edges of the crack when I first did it, making the jams secure (albeit a bit painful). Now, the crack is smooth and devoid of edges around it, making the moves a bit harder (5.9, I think).

The rest of the route has cleaned up nicely- only a couple of spots of loose rock, the rest of it is a joy to climb and I definitely prefer it to Frogland. I really like that each pitch contributes something interesting to the climb.

For those interested, you can definitely traverse between Frogland and Bourbon at the top of the 2nd pitch of both routes, and I'm pretty sure the top of the 3rd as well. Looks about 5.6 or 5.7 both directions.

By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 30, 2013

Nice work on the route guys! This was one my first routes in Red Rock and I did the first two pitches then traversed over to Frogland. I remember it was really exciting as I was only leading 5.7 n 8 at the time.