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Bouncing Betty Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Fall, WInter, Spring
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Sep 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The final overhanging chimney, 5.8.

Description 

This is a nice, moderate, afternoon outing on the Bottle Top Tower, pretty cruiser and solid. It is definitely gumby-frendly, (taken with a grain of salt - of course - as all Momument routes should be).

Getting to the base is probably the crux. Mountaineer up the slabs from the Southeast wandering through a line that you have eyeballed up from the bench, thread you way up to the notch between the tower and the land form. You are now at the base of a sweet, unseen hand crack that takes you to the top.

P1: Climb the hand crack right of the chossy chimney for a hundred feet or so. Taking care not to knock one of the huge blocks down as you navigate the overhanging capstone chimney, which is how this route got its name (5.9).

Sweet summit.

Rap from good anchors.

Location 

Bottle Top Tower is the tower marking the entrance to Goldstar Canyon. I can't remember if we needed two ropes to get down or not. Better bring an extra untill someone says otherwise.

Protection 

Singles Friends #0.5 - #4. Single Camalots #0.5 - #4. Small to large nuts / medium - large hexes / long runners.


Photos of Bouncing Betty Route Slideshow Add Photo
Bottle Top Tower.
Bottle Top Tower.
Top of Bottle Top Tower with all of Grand Junction and the rim of the Monument in the distance.
Top of Bottle Top Tower with all of Grand Junction...
East side.
East side.

Comments on Bouncing Betty Route Add Comment
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By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Oct 20, 2010

A single 60 m works fine for getting down. The top was a little unnerving with all the huge blocks decaying away, but the climbing was pretty fun..
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
May 31, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route, fun tower to do in a couple hours. The crux is after you summit, trying to open the register.