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Gold Star Canyon
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Bouncing Betty Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Fall, WInter, Spring
Page Views: 885
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Sep 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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East side.


This is a nice, moderate, afternoon outing on the Bottle Top Tower, pretty cruiser and solid. It is definitely gumby-frendly, (taken with a grain of salt - of course - as all Momument routes should be).

Getting to the base is probably the crux. Mountaineer up the slabs from the Southeast wandering through a line that you have eyeballed up from the bench, thread you way up to the notch between the tower and the land form. You are now at the base of a sweet, unseen hand crack that takes you to the top.

P1: Climb the hand crack right of the chossy chimney for a hundred feet or so. Taking care not to knock one of the huge blocks down as you navigate the overhanging capstone chimney, which is how this route got its name (5.9).

Sweet summit.

Rap from good anchors.


Bottle Top Tower is the tower marking the entrance to Goldstar Canyon. I can't remember if we needed two ropes to get down or not. Better bring an extra untill someone says otherwise.


Singles Friends #0.5 - #4. Single Camalots #0.5 - #4. Small to large nuts / medium - large hexes / long runners.

Photos of Bouncing Betty Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Bottle Top Tower with all of Grand Junction...
Top of Bottle Top Tower with all of Grand Junction...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottle Top Tower.
Bottle Top Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: The final overhanging chimney, 5.8.
The final overhanging chimney, 5.8.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon Chalk above the "handcrack".
Brandon Chalk above the "handcrack".

Comments on Bouncing Betty Route Add Comment
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By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Oct 20, 2010

A single 60 m works fine for getting down. The top was a little unnerving with all the huge blocks decaying away, but the climbing was pretty fun..
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
May 31, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route, fun tower to do in a couple hours. The crux is after you summit, trying to open the register. The View makes it 3 stars.
By Ryan Marsters
Nov 22, 2015

"Handcrack." Nice.
By Brandon Chalk
Nov 23, 2015

Really cool adventure to the top of Bottle Top. I think it's funny the route description doesn't seem to mention the 15'-20' of "off-width" in the middle of the so-called "hand crack" :) Yes, there is a hand crack, but only probably 30% of the whole 80' or so to the top is an actual "hand crack". Nevertheless, a really fun, varied summit pitch and definitely a 5.9+ rating for the "off-width portion" and pulling the bulge roof out of the"off-width".

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