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Bouldering my first v10
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By bowshaaa
Jan 12, 2013
great barrington

Recently I was able to achieve my climbing goal last month of bouldering a v10 problem (resevoir rocks in Great Barrington, MA). I was stoked to achieve this because of all the hard work and training I put in to accomplish this goal. I plan to shoot a training video of the training exercises and progression routines I perform to get finger strength and total overall strength.


Here is a short video (including the v10 I climbed) of the trip:




details of the trip can be found here:


bowshaaa's blog


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Jan 12, 2013

not a short video, and there is no need to double post


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By bowshaaa
Jan 12, 2013
great barrington

Deleted the other post due to this being more of a trip report. I guess short is a subjective term then.


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By JoeValley
Jan 12, 2013

Did you do all of these in one day?


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By Nate_801
From St. George
Jan 13, 2013
Moab

Cool vid. Thanks for sharing!!!


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By JasonT
Jan 13, 2013
MS13 Training Arete

Good send and vid Bowshaa. Dont listen to the haters. Denny, the 5.10 routes youve ticked are nowhere near v10. Know that.


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By Ryan Hill
From Cedar City, UT
Jan 13, 2013

Thanks for sharing. I'm having a hard time imagining the dedication it takes to climb those grades. Congratulations on the send!


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By bowshaaa
Jan 14, 2013
great barrington

JasonJNSmith wrote:
Did you do all of these in one day?


No didn't do them all in a day. Pressure drop was done on a different day. The sleet that was coming down (you can see at the second boulder) turned to rain when i was working on it.


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By bowshaaa
Jan 14, 2013
great barrington

JasonT wrote:
Good send and vid Bowshaa. Dont listen to the haters. Denny, the 5.10 routes youve ticked are nowhere near v10. Know that.


Thanks for checking it out!


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By Jsimpson
Jan 14, 2013

Good work. Looking forward to seeing the training video.


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By Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Jan 15, 2013
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jade

beaneeeezz
beaneeeezz

Bouldering stereotype upheld: 100% beanie coverage!!!

Nice send though bow-chicka-wow-wow!

I look forward to your training insights as well


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By bowshaaa
Jan 15, 2013
great barrington

@Dylan Weldin Didn't actually notice that until you posted! You know climbers always have bed head they're trying to hide!


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
Stoked...

Question... on the fotwa boulder - I always thought the right hand side of that had a stand start called the Jerk or something like that... any ideas?


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By Alex Whitman
Jan 15, 2013
Luxury Liner, Indian Creek

Dylan Weldin wrote:
Bouldering stereotype upheld: 100% beanie coverage!!! Nice send though bow-chicka-wow-wow! I look forward to your training insights as well


Umm... No. They have shirts on. Everyone wears hats. You're dumb if you dont wear a hat when it is cold out. Now if they kept said beanies on but removed shirts then we would have some quality bro-uldering.


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By bowshaaa
Jan 15, 2013
great barrington

CaptainMo wrote:
Question... on the fotwa boulder - I always thought the right hand side of that had a stand start called the Jerk or something like that... any ideas?


There is a stand start where you are matched on the horizontal razor crimp of fotowa but I was told that is the "super stand start". To the left of fotowa is a problem called pistol grip and on the right of fotowa is pressure drop. Ive never known of any other problems than these on this boulder.


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Jan 15, 2013

Enjoyed the video. Definitely post more.


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By bowshaaa
Jan 16, 2013
great barrington

Logan Schiff wrote:
Enjoyed the video. Definitely post more.


Thanks! Hope to have more coming soon


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Jan 17, 2013

JasonT wrote:
Good send and vid Bowshaa. Dont listen to the haters. Denny, the 5.10 routes youve ticked are nowhere near v10. Know that.


bouldering videos will never be inspiring. climb higher.


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By Jonathan Lee
Jan 17, 2013

From my early teens to my mid 20s i lived and breathed skateboarding, but was always annoyed by the street vs vert wars. Then i found climbing, which i love even more, but was soon introduced to boulder vs roped vs bolted vs natural vs bolted on rappel vs bolted on lead wars. Sigh...i guess it exists everywhere. Who knows? Maybe the build-a-ship-in-a-bottle guys have schooner vs clipper wars that we have no idea about...


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By user id
Jan 17, 2013
DUDE! Your ankles....

spray.


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By Jonathan Lee
Jan 17, 2013

user id wrote:
spray.


What am i spraying about, the fact that i spent such a long time riding around on little pieces of plywood with plastic wheels or that i'm still annoyed by people who argue about which aspect of their pursuit is more legit and enjoyable?


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By bowshaaa
Jan 17, 2013
great barrington

S Denny wrote:
bouldering videos will never be inspiring. climb higher.


Not surprising since it appears from your tick list that you only climb on rope. Some people find bouldering videos inspiring because....they like to boulder. But thanks for sharing your thoughts!


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 17, 2013
Stoked...

bowshaaa wrote:
There is a stand start where you are matched on the horizontal razor crimp of fotowa but I was told that is the "super stand start". To the left of fotowa is a problem called pistol grip and on the right of fotowa is pressure drop. Ive never known of any other problems than these on this boulder.


Right on... I went back and checked my 8a ticks and it looks like back in 2004 I marked off having done a 7C stand start at GB called The Jerk. I could have swore that it was on the right side of Fotwa... maybe it was renamed in the last 9 years to Pressure Drop. I seem to recall it starting on the right side of fotwa and climbing up the right arete.


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By bowshaaa
Jan 17, 2013
great barrington

CaptainMo wrote:
Right on... I went back and checked my 8a ticks and it looks like back in 2004 I marked off having done a 7C stand start at GB called The Jerk. I could have swore that it was on the right side of Fotwa... maybe it was renamed in the last 9 years to Pressure Drop. I seem to recall it starting on the right side of fotwa and climbing up the right arete.


Yeah, I know what youre talking about now, starting on the high crimp and then making a slightly big move to the left hand crimp and then topping out. I guess I did that problem too then when I was playing through some beta!


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 17, 2013
Stoked...

bowshaaa wrote:
Yeah, I know what youre talking about now, starting on the high crimp and then making a slightly big move to the left hand crimp and then topping out. I guess I did that problem too then when I was playing through some beta!


awesome - did that feel about V9? Sounds about right...I think it was like 1 or 2 hard moves.


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By bowshaaa
Jan 17, 2013
great barrington

CaptainMo wrote:
awesome - did that feel about V9? Sounds about right...I think it was like 1 or 2 hard moves.


Yeah it's pretty much like a one arm pullup and a low probability move also. I would agree with a 9 on that.


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