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Boulder X 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Dave Jacobsen
Page Views: 1,575
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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a climber i dont know getting VERY close to sendin...

Description 

Start standing in the middle of the arrowhead shaped boulder on some decent incut holds, the taller they are the easier the problem is. put on a foot and grab the lip, match and get a high right foot, then prepare to roll over onto your right foot as the hands that wait for you will offer little assistance with pulling the lip. Heel hook, slap, and use precise feet to send the crux mantle of this climb! You'll scare yourself on the crux of this great line.

Make sure your spotter is paying attention. In Fall 2005 a spotter received an elbow to the head on this climb and got a cracked skull and had to be transported out by the forest service/fish and game.

Location 

Hike 50ft towards pond from terrorist boulder. the problem faces the pond so you won't see it till you walk past it and turn around to look back at terrorist boulder.
It usually is pretty heavily chalked.

Protection 

Pads and spotters. Beware! a spotter one year ago received massive blunt trauma to his skull courtesy of a climbers elbow whilst falling off the top.


Photos of Boulder X Slideshow Add Photo
Sam Todzia taking a run up this climb while I spot and Kristin looks on.
Sam Todzia taking a run up this climb while I spot...
digging in with everything...
digging in with everything...
jakob pulling down hard on boulder x...
jakob pulling down hard on boulder x...

Comments on Boulder X Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 21, 2014
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 2, 2007
rating: V8 7B

this is the hardest V6 ive touched... never finished it and fell from it many times... joe kinder tried to give me beta on it once "oh shit yo, there is this mad possitive hold way back from the lip, once you get that you are done" though i am always greatful for his super psyched move by move beta this one was no help... the good hold he spoke of is so far back that it can only be reached after the top out, proving how strong joe is... he didnt even know where the crux was...
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Aug 5, 2008

Ha! Funny storry Lee. This is one of those problems that feels like it shouldn't be as hard as it is. All the beta variations I've tried boil down to "grab the holds just above the lip and try really hard to press it out far enough that you can unweight one of your hands."
By Ryan HInrichs
From: amherst new hampshire
Sep 11, 2011

I try this problem every time i come here. Never been able to send it. One day i hope to pull it out.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 12, 2011

You're not alone Ryan. :( :)
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 21, 2011

I finally did it. A gorgeous fall day out. My proudest boulder ascent to date.

By JEC
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Nov 21, 2011

Jeff,
Nice send! Didn't know you were filming or we could have moved Ethan out of the way! If you want to go back and send it again I'll make sure he's out of frame. You'll probably want to send that every session now that you have it wired!...or not.
JEC
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 11, 2013
rating: V8 7B

FINALLY! after well over 10 years i got up this thing today! i have climbed many v7 and v8 boulders recently and i can confidently say this felt harder than any of them... i was so happy to stand on top!!!!!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 11, 2013

I agree with you Lee. But how do you grade something where a huge part of the difficulty is committing to a terrifying overhead heel hook and mantel?

It would be interesting to see what grade people would give it if it was a lowball and the fall felt totally safe.

Either way, nice work! It's a proud tick.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 11, 2013
rating: V8 7B

thanks much!
i didnt find this one to be scary really so im going on sheer difficulty...
i do think that happens a lot on scary lines though, the top out on RTL for instance i find to be spooky so that one i see as a mental crux... i dont feel like the top out is the hardest move but you are up there so it seems it...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 12, 2013

For all of you who are saying you sent this problem: I don't believe you. Like the Loch Ness Monster, Bigfoot, and moderate Republicans, sends of Boulder X are pure myth.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Watch me slay the Loch Ness Monster at 2:20
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 12, 2013

Still don't believe it Lee. Smoke and mirrors!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2013
rating: V8 7B

haha fair enough jay... you cant trust images anymore... you notice you cant see below me on my video, could be on a ladder... and in jeffs video there is a dude blocking him half the time... fishy stuff...
By Tyler Hogan
Sep 21, 2014

Some alternative beta for Boulder X: