Boulder Slips is an old trad route that is seldom climbed these days because of a few spots of poor protection. However, the climbing is good, the crux has decent pro, and the route can be top-roped from the anchor on My Way.
From the parking pullout, walk up to the shoulder on the right side of crag. The route starts in a big right-facing dihedral with a roof about 40' up.
Climb up the dihedral, past several thin sections, to the roof. Protection is generally good in this area, with small cams and wires. Face climb left just below the roof to a stance on the arete. There is a thin crack under the roof where you can place two black (smallest) Aliens to protect this crux traverse. Above the roof, step right and climb a short slab to a crack (5.6 or 5.7 runout), and continue up the crack and slabs to the 2-bolt anchor on My Way. The last slab section is also a bit runout, but no harder than 5.7.
Stop at the 2-bolt anchor on My Way. From here, it's 85' back down. If you continue up to a pine tree at the top, there is no anchor and it's 110' back down (a 60m rope won't quite make it).
Up to a #2 Camalot, with emphasis on small to finger-size cams and small wires. Two black Aliens provide protection for the crux moves left under the roof. Ball nuts should work here as well.
The protection up to the roof and through the traverse is generally good with modern cams. The only runouts are in two slab sections above the roof, but the climbing is no harder than 5.7.
The route can be top-roped from the anchor on My Way.
On the right side of the crag at a big right-facing corner capped by a roof.
Mike Borkowski starting the crux traverse under th...
BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips route (9 R). Climb a right-facing c...
A TR lap.
|Comments on Boulder Slips
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jun 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
I top roped this, but the pro looks reasonable. With small cams, I don't think it would be too risky to lead. It would have been risky on the first ascent without cams, unless pitons were used.