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|Type: ||Snow, Alpine, 7100'|
|FA: ||Joe Morovits and party. July 2, 1894|
|Submitted By: ||Scott Perkins on Feb 8, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Boulder-Park Cleaver with upper variations in red....
This is a good moderate route that avoids the crowds often found on the Easton or the Coleman Demming. This is very good route to ski or board.
I have climbed this route(variations) several times and have only encountered 3 people total. One back country climbing ranger, and another year I met a team of two doing a ski descent.
The high camp below the cleaver is probably my favorite bivy on Baker with spectacular views into the North Cascades, and odds are you will enjoy it all to yourselves. The route faces due east so an early start is advisable. There is rockfall hazard while traversing below the 9,300ft buttress or when taking the direct line north of the buttress from the steep cliffs just below Grant Peak. Helmets highly recomended.
From highcamp cross the lower Boulder Glacier heading NW to the toe of the cleaver. Various bivy sites exist along the cleaver for those that prefer a higher camp and a shorter summit day climb. The meat of the route is crevasse free as it follows the B-P Cleaver to just below a large rock buttress at around 9,300ft. A flat section with small bivy site at 8,8000ft makes a good spot to stop and scope out the upper portion of the route. From here there are a number of options but the two most common finishes are:
Option A: head up towards the toe of the rock buttress and make a soutward traverse towards Sherman Crater(note that there is some brief exposure to rockfall while travesing under the rock buttres). The terrain on this upper section is moderate 25-35 degree snow slopes while negotiating crevasses as necessary. Crevasse patterns here will dictate your exact route and this section can be very broken by mid summer.
Option B: At 9,300ft the rock buttress can be climbed directly via 4th, or along the north edge of the buttress on a short snow or ice slope for a few hundred feet to easier snow slopes, move left then angle up and right onto Grant peak.
Descend the climbing route back to camp, if you brought skis or a board, Enjoy!
Note- One can also climb the B-P Cleaver to around 9000ft and make a northward traverse to the base of Park Headwall and climb this directly to summit(yellow line in photo).
The route is accessed via the Boulder Ridge trail #605. To reach the trailhead from N Cascades Hwy 20 just west of the town of Concrete follow Baker Lake rd for approx. 15 miles then just after the road crosses over Boulder Creek make a left onto FS rd 1130. After a short distance make another left on FS rd 1131. Follow to the parking area at end(forest service parking pass required). In early season it is advisable to check road conditions for FS 1130 & FS 1131
Hike the Boulder Ridge trail 2 miles to a large flat clearing/wet marsh, cross this northwesterly to regain the trail on the other side and follow the well traveled but moderately steep trail up into the moraine and along the base of the ridge to a 50ft scamble up a rock section to gain the ridge. This rock section is solid, well featured and IMHO 3rd class but the last few times I was in there has been a fixed rope(most recent 2010). From the ridge a short trail leads thru the brush out onto open slopes and then nice bivy sites at around 5,500ft just below the Boulder Glacier.
There is often a running water source at a rocky outcrop near the campsites.
Additional info and aerial photos can be found in Cascade Alpine Guide 3
glacier rope, 1 picket each, crevasse rescue gear.
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