Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Walt's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.7 Cracks T 
Boulder Exit 9 T 
Edward's Crack, Left Exit T 
Edward's Crack, Right Friction Finish T 
Edwards' Crack T 
Foolishness T 
Fourth Of July Crack (Hard Promises) T 
Friction Slide T,S,TR 
In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II) T,S 
Jabberwocky 
Jacquot's Face T 
Jake Direct T 
Jake's Variation S 
Mantle Route AKA Koedt's Route TR 
Mary 
Satterfield's Crack T 
Sisca Face T 
Tourist Trap T 
Walt's Wall T 
Water Streak (aka Friday's Follies) T,TR 
Weak Become Heroes 
Unsorted Routes:

Boulder Exit 9 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Brink, Rob Kelman, 1983
Page Views: 314
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Sep 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the alternative, FAR more spicy exit to Satterfield's Crack.

Instead of scrambling to the back of the chimney atop Satterfield's, sack up, look left, and jam desperately that evil, big chockstone. The crux for some is just getting into position. You'll need to be a yoga master or else know how to pretzel yourself around if you start with your back against the main wall (easier, until you realize you've got to spin 180).

Reach out, step left on that blank damn wall, and pray. Good luck!

(The Kelman guidebook calls this a 9. I call it sandbag.)

Descent: Rap anchors after you pull the boulder. Double ropes to the ground or one rope to a ledge below you with more rings. You COULD do another short pitch of 5.6(?) to the very top, but why screw this pooch?


Location 

This is atop Satterfield's. Weren't you listening?


Protection 

Small gear abounds once you work yourself up to the launching pad. Secret finger cracks in the wall behind you, or else stuff bomber cams into the very pinches you need in order to jam your way out of this hell. It helps to have sack, too.



Comments on Boulder Exit 9 Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -