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Boulder Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,142
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Feb 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Boulder Crack.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route is on a boulder that is separate from AFPA rock, but easily visible from the road. Starts off with an overhang, crack then goes vertical. Crack offers good jams, and features on the outside of the crack offer good edges.


Protection 

This crack takes good gear. Small cams or nuts work at the bottom. Medium size cams work higher up. Set the anchor in a horizontal crack(takes small to medium cams).



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 25, 2013
By Randy
Mar 20, 2003
rating: 5.15d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c

A not-so hidden gem. A classic in the rough. Simply one of the best short routes in Josh, bar none. Need I say more?

By Josh Beck
Mar 21, 2003

I agree that this is clearly not a 3 star route. I also, however, agree that 0 stars should not be a bomb. I gave Nolina Crack at White Cliffs of Dover 0 stars, in order to keep it in perspective with what 1 star means (to me anyways). I don't think it's a bomb, it's a perfectly fine route but thoroughly unnoteworthy.

By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 1, 2003

A.J. After a riveting experience on Tennis Shoe Crack which of these 6 star J-Tree classics of equivalent grade would you recommend: Fluff Boy, Funky Dung, or Wake Me When It's Over?

By Randy
Apr 4, 2003
rating: 5.15d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c

Routes of this length see frequent unplanned bivies, particularly during the shorter winter days from November through February. I would recommend that the well prepared climber bring: a flashlight, matches (or lighter), 27 power bars (cliff bars OK), toilet paper, gas mask (in case weapons of mass destruction are found lurking under this boulder), fleece, rain gear, umbrella, bivy bag, and of course, a bolt kit (in case you ever get up the nerve to lead Double Cross.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2003

You can use the scale on the site easily enough. You always have to read in context. On this site, 0 stars is a bonb, 1 star is unremarkable, 2 stars is a great line, and 3 stars is a climb you consider to be a super-classic that you called all of your pals about that night. Every book and every author use different scales. By using the scale as published on this site, you can maintain consistency. That's better than putting what you think it should be on someother scale and then haggling over which scale is correct.

By Steven Powers
Oct 7, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

ive done bolder problems in the park that are taller....

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 6, 2004
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Now this is the kind of verbosity that legends are made of.

PS cinco estrellas es mas bueno para mi.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 16, 2004
rating: 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

After rehearsing the initial overhanging moves on toprope and fixing the first pitches, we were able to claim a victorious 1-day, completely free ascent. 18 hours car to car. The bar has been set.

By Woody Stark
Nov 17, 2004

Gee, I always thought you were supposed to start from the top and climb it down head first. I gotta try it going up I guess.

By Choss Chasin'
From: Torrance, CA
Aug 25, 2010

You guys joke but I've seen a group of guys thrashing about on this one while on top rope....Also the top anchor was about 6 feet below the top out.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Mar 25, 2013

I bouldered this with some tourists nearby the other day and they gaped and gawked like I was some kind of sorcerer. Wound up autographing a few boobs over it.