Good climb. This line starts up by Peter Principal, a ways left of Ariel and Devaluation Direct. Start up into a hole in the wall. Work up to and into a bomb-bay squeeze chimney, which is climbed and protected via some finger cracks in the back of it. Step out and to the climber's right as the climbing gets harder. There are crux feet and right-hand side-pulls to be had. Finish the line up on jams and locks with good feet to the top.
Formerly, the top-anchor or TR can be set with a direction at the top of the crack, then stepping to climber's left up top to a set of bolts/chains. However, a retro-bolt anchor has been placed.
Standard Rack of stoppers and cams. The crux is not exactly sewn up, but a 2-2.5" cam rack under the A-frame roof and a few stoppers or TCU's before it make it safe enough, even if exciting at a leader's limit.
Alma Leon-Reveles cruises the easy section up the ...
Alma Leon-Reveles stepping out of the chimney into...
In the business.
|By Greg Collins|
Jan 20, 2006
I have to disagree on the star rating. This is a fantastic climb. Easy start to bombay chimney, squeeze out and pull above it, then an easier, but not easy crack to the top. Definately 3 or 4 stars
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2006
Go left-side-in for the crux. It's a trifle easier than it looks but still on the spicy side. Save some strength and a #2 Camalot for the upper (5.8-5.9ish) crack; it's not a gimme.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
To update the OP's beta: there are now anchors directly above Bottomless Topless, no need for directionals.
From: Tahoma, California
Dec 31, 2012
You can also stay outside the chimney, and straddle it from outside, it is a fun variation on this wonderful climb.