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Main Canyon Road Ice
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Bottomless and Topless 

WI6 M6 R

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus: WI6 M6 [details]
FA: Seth Shaw 1995/6 FFA Tim Wagner
Season: Jan-Feb
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: Stymingersfink on Dec 21, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Bottomless Topless from the road.

Description 

Climb the weakness through the corner just right of the dagger, trending left to gain the free-hanging dagger. Small gear in the crack, don't bother with screws in the dagger unless you've a death wish.

180' rap from chains on dihedral on right.

Location 

On the south side of the road adjacent to an east facing corner. Aptly named, you'll know it when you see it.

Protection 

Small wires and/or cams


Photos of Bottomless and Topless Slideshow Add Photo
Matt gets the TR on the left hand variation of Bottomless/Topless.
Matt gets the TR on the left hand variation of Bot...
Rock Prodigy sends the first probable ascent of the left hand variation of Bottomless/Topless.
BETA PHOTO: Rock Prodigy sends the first probable ascent of th...

Comments on Bottomless and Topless Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Givens
Feb 4, 2008

CONDITION REPORT 
My partner and I climbed this on 2/2/08 via the bolted variation. Bolts were solid and well-placed, and the ice was in good condition, though a tiny bit thinner than 2 weeks prior. What an aesthetic and inspiring route!! Kudos to the Seth Shaw and Tim for seeing the vision...we humbly follow!

Some helpful beta - we missed the anchors at the top of the climb due to lots of fresh snow (apparently to the left immediately as you top out) but you can also continue up 20 meters to a tree equipped for rapping. 1 60m rap gets you to the ground...a 50m may not cut it. You can also rap to the chain anchors directly below the ice (about 9 bolts up). cheers!
By Brian in SLC
Jan 29, 2008

There's also an "M" sport bolted variation on the climber's left side of the ice, with an anchor over the lip and up a short ramp on the left as well. I think there's a BB rock route in the 5.11-ish range that provides the pro for this variation. Might be easier in the summer as a rock climb too...